Do you think getting a yearly maintenance check on your HVAC system is a good idea?

Whether you answered “yes” or “no,” you’re only half right!

If you get just one visit per year, it depends on the time of year you get the visit. Generally the technician will only test the system pertinent to the season you’re in. If it’s spring or summer, they’ll check the air-conditioning system. If it’s fall or winter, they’ll check the heating system. Why can’t they do both at the same time? If you had you air-conditioner checked in say, November, and it was fine then, a lot can happen by the time April or May rolls around and your money will not have been well-spent.

We always recommend having two maintenance checks each year: once for the cooling system in the spring and another for the heating system in the fall. Have the systems checked before you turn it on for the first time that season or at least early in the season. That’s when you can prevent the most problems from occurring later on.

Here are some benefits to regular, twice yearly maintenance:

• Better air quality, with less dust accumulation, thus creating a healthier environment.
• Prolongs the life of your equipment, thus saving you money.
• Addresses potential safety issues, thus preventing a disaster.
• Keeps your system more efficient, thus reducing energy consumption and cost.
• Addresses worn parts and potential problems pro-actively, before a breakdown, thus preventing inconveniences for you.

As a bonus, if you sign up for a maintenance contract with us, you’ll get twice yearly service and a discount on any parts that may be needed throughout the year! That saves you even more money! When you think about it, getting an Interstate AC Service maintenance contract can be a pretty smart move! Call on us at (615) 832-8500 today.

Heavy rains in Middle Tennessee serve as a reminder of the dangers posed by excessive water.  Flooding of roadways and fallen trees come to mind, but have you considered how excessive rain can affect your heating and air conditioning system? The typical central heating & air-conditioning system has 3 main components:

• an outdoor part – which sits beside or behind your home,
• an indoor part – usually in a basement, attic, or utility room, and
• ductwork – which runs all around various spaces inside your home.

Let’s look at how heavy rains can affect each of these.

Outdoors

The outdoor parts – the compressor and condenser coil – are built to withstand all kinds of weather.  The sensitive electrical components are sealed and the connections are insulated and made impervious to moisture. The outer-facing parts are comprised of aluminum, copper, and other metals, which are made to handle heavy rains.  But too much rain can impact the outdoor unit in the following ways:

• Erosion, gullies, and mudslicks can cause the pad the outdoor unit is sitting on to shift as the heavy rain washes away the earth beneath and beside it. The result is that the unit is no longer level, or in extreme cases, the unit has washed partly or completely off the pad. If you encounter either of these situations, turn the unit off and do not operate it until the unit is made level again, on a firm footing.
• Debris from the yard or blowing in the wind can wash up near the unit or become lodged in the unit. Branches, leaves, and other debris can fall inside the unit (where the fan blades are), or can damage the fins on the sides of the unit. After a storm, always check the outdoor unit. If the fins have been damaged or you see gashes or holes, turn the unit off and call a professional. Operating the system with debris in or against the unit will cause damage to the unit!
• Standing water or flooding around the outdoor unit can be quite serious, as it may have damaged the internal components. Turn the unit off and have it professionally inspected before you restart it. In the meantime, check the source of the water: do you have a broken or blocked gutter or a downspout that needs to be re-directed? If the source of the standing water is due to the unit being located in a low spot in yard, or in an area with poor drainage due to vegetation or slopes, consider relocating the unit or raising it up several feet to prevent future flooding.
• Tip: Never use a tarp or plastic bag to cover the outdoor unit. It traps moisture inside, leading to rust, mold, and mildew, which weakens the components and will cause them to break down sooner. It also creates an attractive nesting ground for insects and vermin. Covering the outdoor unit while running the air-conditioner will damage the compressor.

Indoors

The indoor part – typically the furnace, heat exchanger, evaporator, and air handler – is usually located in a basement, attic, or utility room. Because it is designed to be indoors, its electrical components and construction are not built to withstand rain or extreme moisture. In a heavy rain, or even during a water heater mishap, your basement or utility room may experience flooding. If your unit is located in the attic, be mindful that a roof leak as a result of the heavy rain could develop. Any time your indoor unit is wet or encounters standing water, a short in the electrical circuits can damage the wiring, motors, and electronics, and make the system hazardous. The system should be turned off from the main circuit breaker (not just at thermostat). Do not attempt to start it again without having it thoroughly inspected by an HVAC technician.

Ductwork

Ductwork, which is often run in crawlspaces and attics, can be impacted by heavy rains. If your crawlspace floods or your roof leaks, the ductwork will get wet. Ductwork is typically not waterproof. Water entering the ducts may remain inside the duct long after the flood itself has receded, and will cause the ductwork to deteriorate. Mold and mildew will begin growing inside your ductwork, giving your whole house a musty smell, and could lead to the perfect environment for toxic mold growth. Roof leaks can often go unnoticed in the attic for some time, and moisture or even standing water in a crawlspace can go unnoticed if it doesn’t raise to the level of impacting the floors. This ongoing moisture will saturate the insulation around the ducts, in the attic, and under the floor joists. Wet insulation no longer does its job, and the increased heat transfer causes your heat and air conditioner to run longer cycles to compensate, or forces you to continually adjust the thermostat to compensate for the reduced efficiency.  But the biggest danger to you and your family from wet ductwork is the reduced air quality and health hazards of mold.

If you are concerned that your system is not working properly due to recent storms in the area, give Interstate AC Service a call at (615) 832-8500. We’ll determine if your system is safe to operate or is in need of repairs.

Foul odors coming from your cooling system are more than an unwelcome inconvenience – they can be downright dangerous.  Air conditioner smells are most often caused by mold and mildew growing somewhere within the system.  In this post, we’ll look at how your HVAC system can harbor mold and be responsible for circulating musty odors.

Air conditioners work primarily by dehumidifying the air.  The water drawn out of the air drips from the evaporator coils into a condensation pan (or drip pan) under the HVAC air handling unit. Drip pans are the perfect environments for mold and algae growth, which then can clog the drain lines.  If the moisture is unable to flow out of the system, the water backs up and can overflow the drip pan, causing water damage in your home as well as causing your air conditioner to shut off.  In fact, a clogged condensate drain line is the second leading cause of AC failures.

Regular Maintenance is Essential

As part of regular spring/summer HVAC maintenance, the evaporator coil and condensation lines are cleaned.  Having your system’s evaporator coil cleaned not only works to reduce smell, but the procedure will also improve the efficiency of your air conditioner. The mold, mildew, and dirt deposited on your coil will reduce airflow through the system, lowering its efficiency, and causing your HVAC to fail sooner.

Clean Condensate Pan & Drain Lines

But even if you’ve had your system cleaned at the beginning of the season, the condensate drain line could still become clogged during the course of use.  So, it is important to check the condensate pan and drain lines monthly throughout the air conditioning season.  Here’s how:

1. Find the condensate pan – usually a metal or hard plastic pan about 3 inches deep – sitting below the HVAC’s air handling unit. In some cases, you may need to remove a metal panel to access it. The condensate pan should be nearly dry.  If it has significant rust all over, or is rusted out in sections, it must be replaced. Plus, signs of rust means there has been water backing up in the pan regularly, which is not a good sign.
2. If the condensate pan has standing water in it or if there is water on the floor nearby, there is a problem with the condensation drain lines.  If your HVAC unit is in the attic, you might see water coming through the ceiling!  If this is the case, turn the HVAC unit off at the electrical switch and at the thermostat. Using rags or a wet/dry vacuum, remove all the water from the drip pan and around the unit.  Then clean the pan with a mild dish soap or 10% bleach solution.
3. The drip pan connects to the condensate drain line, which carries water out of the home.  Locate where the drain line exits outside the house.  Be sure there are no obstructions, that the drain line is not buried under dirt or landscaping, and that you can see whether it is dripping.
4. If no moisture is exiting outdoors even while the system is running or when the condensate pan is full of water, then the drain line is clogged. You may need to use a long, flexible rubber tube through the line – from each end – to dislodge the clog.  Another option is to connect the wet/dry vac to the outlet, and use your hands to make a “seal” around the drain line in order to draw the clog out, or use an AC drain sucker kit.
5. With the system turned off, flush out the drain using distilled vinegar, hot water with mild dish soap, or a 10% bleach solution. Leave the solution to soak for up to 30 minutes, then rinse the lines with clean water. Be sure you can see the water exiting freely out of the exterior condensate line.
6. Special cases: If the drain line does not have a direct downward slope allowing it to make use of gravity to help the water exit, you may need to have a small pump added to help push the water out.  If there is a reservoir which holds water until it exits, you may need to add a mild bleach solution, condensate drain line cleaner, or anti-algae tablets to the reservoir on a regular basis to prevent the growth of mold and algae.

If you care about the quality of the air you and your family breathes every day – and want to prolong your HVAC investment – be sure to get your HVAC serviced regularly, and keep that condensation pan and drain clear! If you’re not comfortable with any of the steps listed above, call on Interstate AC service at (615) 832-8500. Rest assured, we’re here to help!

In Middle Tennessee, destructive storms are not only the norm, but becoming more frequent.  Tennessee has already had more tornadoes so far this year than all of last year or the year before!  Your HVAC system is the single most costly system in your home – not just in yearly maintenance and energy costs, but also when it comes to replacing it.  Although you cannot prevent tornadoes, snow/ice storms, wind, hail, rain, lightening, and floods, you can help prevent some of the associated HVAC-related repair or replacement costs by taking a few precautions.  This post will provide useful tips for protecting your HVAC before and during a storm, as well as tips for dealing with some common problems after the storm has passed.

Before the Storm

In the spring (before “tornado season”) and in the fall (before snow and ice hit), go through this checklist:

Anchor the outdoor unit. Your outside AC equipment should be installed on a level, raised, pad.  Ensure water does not pool near the unit during a heavy rain by ensuring downspouts are routed far away from the unit, that there is an adequate gravel border around the pad, and the land is sloped for optimal drainage.

Remove projectiles.  In Nashville, it is not uncommon to find your neighbor’s lawn furniture blown into your yard after a storm, or to have tree limbs fall on your property.  Secure or store any loose items from your yard such as lawn furniture or grills that can be blown into the outdoor unit. Remove or trim all bushes, trees and dead branches that could fall onto the unit in a storm.

Install hail guards.  It has become commonplace for Tennessee to get hail along with rain and winds. Impacts from hail can be particularly damaging to the fins and refrigerant coil of the condensing unit.  Hail guards are thick metal “netting” that can stay in place year-round and still allow operation of the system (unlike covers!). They can be installed with hinges so they can be easily removed for servicing the unit.

Prevent electrical shorts.  Be sure to cover and secure any wires between the outdoor unit and the house so that they are not exposed.  If they get wet or frayed, they could short out!  Over time, even insulated wires can deteriorate by normal sun and temperature changes.  Styrofoam “noodles” with hollowed out centers for wrapping around wires) are one way to keep the wires protected, and they can easily be cut to any length and taped shut with weather-proof tape.

Install surge suppression.  Storms often cause electrical disturbances or fluctuations in power (so-called “surges”).  To protect your HVAC equipment, install a high-quality surge protector that will automatically turn off your HVAC system to protect it from damage if there’s a spike in the line voltage. Consult an electrician to install a surge protector at the circuit breaker box. This can prevent expensive repairs due to blown fuses, burnt capacitors, and fried compressors.

Install a sump pump, if necessary.  Basement floods are a major cause of HVAC system problems. Protect your equipment by installing a sump pump to automatically detect and remove water. Consult a water-proofing professional to address your foundation and basement issues.  Keeping the basement and crawlspaces dry will also prevent mold from being drawn into the ductwork.

During a Storm

With all the weather alerts provided by various media – on TV, on our phones, and audible sirens – we often have at least a few minutes advance notice of impending destructive weather.  First and foremost, you need to seek shelter, but if time allows here are some steps you can take to prevent HVAC equipment damage:

• Turn it off.  Avoid using your HVAC during a storm. Power surges might cause damage to its electronics. Shut off your heating and cooling system at the thermostat first, then at the circuit breaker. This ensures your AC or furnace will not inadvertently turn on during a storm, possibly damaging the coils or fins.
• Cover it.  Most outdoor condensing units are not sheltered from the weather. Air conditioner covers (usually made of heavy canvas or vinyl) are relatively cheap, available online, and offer good protection from hail storms and snow and ice.  However, the system must remain off while it is covered.  Prior to turning your equipment back on after the storm, you must remember to remove the cover and any debris that has gathered on or around it.  Tip:  Do not use a tarp or other protective cover that completely covers the unit, as it can cause moisture to build up inside the unit or attract animals seeking shelter.  Leave at least a foot of space around the bottom of the unit to allow it to breathe.

After the Storm has Passed

After the storm has passed, do not immediately switch the HVAC unit back on!  First, inspect your outdoor condensing unit for any signs of damage.  Look for cracks, impacts from hail or flying debris, harm to any of the refrigerant or electrical lines, and remove any debris that has fallen in or around the unit.  Check if there has been any movement or shifting of the unit off the pad, or if flooding and erosion has now caused the system to be un-level.  If you see any of this, call a licensed professional to inspect your system before turning it back on. If any power lines have fallen nearby your unit, do not approach the HVAC unit or turn it on until they are cleared.

But, What if…?

The more typical scenario is that the storm caused a power outage, and when the power was restored, the HVAC did not come back on as expected.  If this is the case, then after visually inspecting the inside and outside units and seeing no damage, follow these steps:

1. Check the thermostat, to be sure it has power. Turn the thermostat off and then back on, wait a couple of minutes, then change the temperature to a setting that would normally trigger the unit to come on, and give it a few minutes to cycle.  If the unit still does not come on, then turn it off at the thermostat and proceed with step 2.
2. Check the circuit breaker.  If it has been tripped, flip it off, wait a minute, and flip it back on again.  Then re-try step 1.  If the unit comes on for a short period and then goes off again, or if the circuit breaker is immediately tripped again, proceed to step 3.
3. Call an HVAC service professional.  If there is evidence of a melted or burned fuse at the fuse box, contact a licensed electrical professional.  In either case, leave the unit turned off until help arrives.

In the event there has been visible damage or the unit has been hit by lightning, make photos of the damaged unit for your insurance company. Most insurance policies cover power surge damage to HVAC units and their associated electronics (thermostat, etc.).  Also, if there is any question, contact an HVAC professional so that something small does not turn into a major expense.  For example, replacing a damaged capacitor is an inexpensive repair but if it is ignored, it can lead to a failed compressor which is an extremely costly replacement.

Whether you need help preparing for a storm or dealing with its aftermath, know you can rely on Interstate AC Service to find the most affordable, effective way to deal with the problem.  If you live in the Nashville or surrounding area, call on us at (615) 832-8500.

We hate to be the bearer of bad news (maybe good news to a few of you) but Winter just happens to be right around the corner. Yes, in this the year 2016, winter will come roaring in like a lion on December the 21st. Also known as 4 days before Christmas! We don’t want you to be blindsided by this event, so today we’re giving you 4 simple steps to take RIGHT NOW to prepare your home for the upcoming cold winter months.

Step 1 Get your fall maintenance check up

The best defense against heating problems is to make sure your system is maintained year-round. Having heating equipment serviced before the heating season can reduce your heating bill and prevent repairs, breakdowns, and ensure your system is operating well.

Step 2 Prepare those hard to heat spaces

Our second recommendation for winterizing your home is to go ahead and prepare those hard-to-heat spaces! We all have that one or 2 rooms that just don’t heat as well as the other rooms because of various reasons. For these spaces it’s a good idea to go ahead and figure out how you’re going to provide extra heating elements. Some options would be adding a furnace with blower or fireplace, inconspicuous baseboard heating or radiant floor heating. Read our complete guide here about heating local spaces.

Step 3 Preparing your windows, doors and other exterior structures.

Check for a good seal and weatherstripping. Problems with these can make doors and windows drafty and cause unnecessary heat loss. If you have storm doors and windows, the time to replace your current screens is now! Don’t have storm windows? Try plastic wrap and weather tape to prevent drafts! Finally, check the wood around doors and windows for signs of rot or decay, cracks, gaps or broken glass and replace or repair if needed.

Step 4  Be sure overhead fans are rotating in the right direction.

Finally, make sure overhead fans are switched to the reverse or clockwise position, Doing this will blow warm air down to the floor leading to energy efficiency and comfort. This will in turn make room feel warmer, and you can lower the thermostat temperature! The only exception to this rule is if your ceiling fan is mounted on a two-story cathedral or a vaulted ceiling, the fan is too high to create this effect so it can stay in counterclockwise setting year round.

If you need help with winter preparation and live in the Nashville and surrounding area, please call on us at 615-802-2665.

There are many conflicting opinions online about getting your air ducts cleaned. In fact the EPA says there is currently no research on the benefits so they are careful not to make a recommendation either way. Since we are your resource for all things HVAC, we’d like to give you the honest facts- good, bad and ugly, that will hopefully help you make your difficult decision more easy.

3 Good Reasons for Duct Cleaning

1. It never hurts to improve your air quality

Everything in your home will get dirty. Homeowners regularly invest time and money in cleaning dust, dirt and other allergens from many surfaces of our home and removing toxins from our water system. In addition to normal dust and dirt accumulation, any of the following environmental factors will eventually affect your air quality:

• pets
• cigarette or cigar smoke
• water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system
• home renovation or remodeling projects

2. Potential Energy savings

When your HVAC system is clean, it doesn’t have to work as hard to maintain the desired temperature. As pollutants pile up in the system, it has to work much harder, using more energy and costing more to work properly. When your ducts are cleaned out, your HVAC unit uses less energy and leads to improved cost-effectiveness!

3. Mold in these components could be making you sick

Contaminants and air pollutants, such as dander, dust, and chemicals are pulled into the HVAC system and re-circulated on average about 5 to 7 times per day. Over time, this recirculation will cause a buildup of these pollutants in the duct system. These pollutants affect the health of young children and the elderly more than anyone. This is why the National Air Duct Cleaners Association recommends homeowners clean their ducts once every three to five years. Furthermore, if you have allergies or asthma, autoimmune disorders or other respiratory health issues they recommend you consider having it done almost annually.

The Bad and Ugly Side of Duct Cleaning

Duct cleaning is a costly and messy process. To do it right all of the components will need to be removed and everything will need to be cleaned. This includes the supply and return air ducts and registers, grilles and diffusers, heat exchangers heating and cooling coils, condensate drain pans (drip pans), fan motor and fan housing, and the air handling unit housing. This is a very time consuming and costly process. Just running a spinning polyester brush  through the ducts will leave 30% or more of the dirt in the ducts.

If you choose to go ahead with duct cleaning, now may be a good time to schedule it. Right before winter is one of the best times to get your air ducts cleaned out as your ducts will be blowing the most air during the winter months.

**Interstate AC Service does not  provide duct cleaning services.

f you live in the Nashville and surrounding area, please call on us at 615-802-2665. The professionals at Interstate AC Service are here for you.

It may surprise you to learn that indoor air pollution is among the top five environmental health risks. That’s why we’ve been devoting a series of posts on air filtration.  If you’ve been watching and listening to our posts, you’ve heard us talk about the MERV ratings of air filters, and how to select the best air filter for your needs. As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. But here is one instance when the buying the best, most expensive filters those with MERV ratings greater than 16 may do more harm than good.

HEPA Filters

Among the most expensive filters are HEPA filters. Higher efficiency filters with a MERV rating of 14 to 16, are sometimes misidentified as HEPA filters.  But true HEPA filters have MERV values of 17 to 20.  HEPA which stands for High-Efficiency Particulate Arrestance – is a special type of filter that, according to DOE standards, filters out 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns in size… that’s 10 times smaller than a MERV 16 filter!  HEPA filters are typically used in biomedical applications to filter out bacteria and viruses.

More Harm Than Good

True HEPA filters those with MERV ratings 17 and above – are normally not installed in residential HVAC systems. A typical residential air handling unit and associated ductwork cannot accommodate HEPA filters. They do not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate the large pressure drop across the dense HEPA filter material. If you install a HEPA filter in an HVAC system not specifically designed for it, it will make your motor work harder because it is getting too much resistance, and this will hamper your airflow, increase fan noise, and cause your system to fail earlier. Check with your HVAC manufacturer prior to upgrading filters to determine whether it is feasible to use more efficient filters.

Let’s Get Real

According to the EPA, using medium-efficiency filters, such as those with a MERV rating of 12-13, are almost as effective as true HEPA filters at removing allergens, with much lower associated system and operating costs, and quieter fan operation.  Furthermore, many air particles never go through your HVAC filter system because they are deposited in your living space on your sheets, furniture, and carpet, for example.  So, you still need to change your sheets, vacuum, and do all those house-cleaning chores regularly to maintain your indoor air quality.

Things You Can Do

Here are some other simple things you can do to improve your indoor air quality:

• Prevent mold by controlling moisture throughout your home.  That means turning on exhaust fans in bathrooms while showering, and making sure your basement and crawlspaces are dry.
• Fix any leaks in your ductwork, in the roof, around windows and doors, and around plumbing fixtures.
• Keep your home smoke-free. Do not smoke indoors, don’t burn candles and incense, and use exhaust fans while cooking.

When you go to a hardware or big box store to purchase air filters you will find a bewildering array of products. 3M, for example, offers 9 different types of filters each with different ratings and at a different price, and then each of those comes in different sizes. It can be confusing, to say the least! We’ll help you make sense of it all, so you can choose the best air filter for your needs.

Size Matters

Size is perhaps the easiest decision: get the size filter that fits the filter holder built into your HVAC system. It should fit snugly, with no air gaps around the filter. Be aware that filters come in thicknesses of 1-inch to 6- inches, with the thicker filters having greater capacity to catch dirt without increasing resistance to air flow and increasing the time between required filter changes.  However, you cannot put a thick filter (4 or 6 inches thick) into your HVAC system if it’s designed to accommodate only a 1-inch thick filter.

Rating Matters

In our previous post, we talked about the MERV ratings of filters.  MERV is an industry standard measurement of filter efficiency.  Individual manufacturers often have their own rating system as well.  3M’s rating is called MPR, which standard for Microparticle Performance Rating.  As with the MERV rating, higher MPR numbers mean a greater percentage of particles and smaller particle sizes will be captured by the filter.

Price vs Performance

How do you decide which MERV rating to get?  Generally, the higher the MERV (or MPR) rating, the more expensive the filter.  For example, the price of a MERV 13 filter is about twice the price of a MERV 8 filter of the same size. 3M offers multiple filters having a MERV 12 rating, but with different MPR ratings, and so even among filters of the same size and MERV rating, the prices can vary.  Which filter to buy depends on how much cleaning you want your filter to do. The lowest price filters at MERV 5 will remove dust, debris and lint. This is the minimum needed to maintain the health of your HVAC system’s heat exchanger and coils.  A MERV 11 filter removes smaller particles such as pollen, dust mites, mold spores, and pet dander. A MERV 12 or 13 filter can filter some bacteria, viruses, and odors.  Since the prices jump up dramatically at MERV ratings higher than 11, and the increased efficiency is only minimally incremental, using filters with more than a MERV 11 rating is probably not cost effective, unless there is some particular medical need.  In the chart, those shown in the “green zone” in the cost column represent the best value on a price vs. performance scale.