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Author: analytics@markalon.com

Are More Expensive Air Filters Better?

It may surprise you to learn that indoor air pollution is among the top five environmental health risks. That’s why we’ve been devoting a series of posts on air filtration.  If you’ve been watching and listening to our posts, you’ve heard us talk about the MERV ratings of air filters, and how to select the best air filter for your needs. As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. But here is one instance when the buying the best, most expensive filters those with MERV ratings greater than 16 may do more harm than good.

HEPA Filters

Among the most expensive filters are HEPA filters. Higher efficiency filters with a MERV rating of 14 to 16, are sometimes misidentified as HEPA filters.  But true HEPA filters have MERV values of 17 to 20.  HEPA which stands for High-Efficiency Particulate Arrestance – is a special type of filter that, according to DOE standards, filters out 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns in size… that’s 10 times smaller than a MERV 16 filter!  HEPA filters are typically used in biomedical applications to filter out bacteria and viruses.

More Harm Than Good

True HEPA filters those with MERV ratings 17 and above – are normally not installed in residential HVAC systems. A typical residential air handling unit and associated ductwork cannot accommodate HEPA filters. They do not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate the large pressure drop across the dense HEPA filter material. If you install a HEPA filter in an HVAC system not specifically designed for it, it will make your motor work harder because it is getting too much resistance, and this will hamper your airflow, increase fan noise, and cause your system to fail earlier. Check with your HVAC manufacturer prior to upgrading filters to determine whether it is feasible to use more efficient filters.

Let’s Get Real

According to the EPA, using medium-efficiency filters, such as those with a MERV rating of 12-13, are almost as effective as true HEPA filters at removing allergens, with much lower associated system and operating costs, and quieter fan operation.  Furthermore, many air particles never go through your HVAC filter system because they are deposited in your living space on your sheets, furniture, and carpet, for example.  So, you still need to change your sheets, vacuum, and do all those house-cleaning chores regularly to maintain your indoor air quality.

Things You Can Do

Here are some other simple things you can do to improve your indoor air quality:

  • Prevent mold by controlling moisture throughout your home.  That means turning on exhaust fans in bathrooms while showering, and making sure your basement and crawlspaces are dry.
  • Fix any leaks in your ductwork, in the roof, around windows and doors, and around plumbing fixtures.
  • Keep your home smoke-free. Do not smoke indoors, don’t burn candles and incense, and use exhaust fans while cooking.

Selecting an Air Filter

When you go to a hardware or big box store to purchase air filters you will find a bewildering array of products. 3M, for example, offers 9 different types of filters each with different ratings and at a different price, and then each of those comes in different sizes. It can be confusing, to say the least! We’ll help you make sense of it all, so you can choose the best air filter for your needs.

Size Matters

Size is perhaps the easiest decision: get the size filter that fits the filter holder built into your HVAC system. It should fit snugly, with no air gaps around the filter. Be aware that filters come in thicknesses of 1-inch to 6- inches, with the thicker filters having greater capacity to catch dirt without increasing resistance to air flow and increasing the time between required filter changes.  However, you cannot put a thick filter (4 or 6 inches thick) into your HVAC system if it’s designed to accommodate only a 1-inch thick filter.

Rating Matters

In our previous post, we talked about the MERV ratings of filters.  MERV is an industry standard measurement of filter efficiency.  Individual manufacturers often have their own rating system as well.  3M’s rating is called MPR, which standard for Microparticle Performance Rating.  As with the MERV rating, higher MPR numbers mean a greater percentage of particles and smaller particle sizes will be captured by the filter.

Price vs Performance

How do you decide which MERV rating to get?  Generally, the higher the MERV (or MPR) rating, the more expensive the filter.  For example, the price of a MERV 13 filter is about twice the price of a MERV 8 filter of the same size. 3M offers multiple filters having a MERV 12 rating, but with different MPR ratings, and so even among filters of the same size and MERV rating, the prices can vary.  Which filter to buy depends on how much cleaning you want your filter to do. The lowest price filters at MERV 5 will remove dust, debris and lint. This is the minimum needed to maintain the health of your HVAC system’s heat exchanger and coils.  A MERV 11 filter removes smaller particles such as pollen, dust mites, mold spores, and pet dander. A MERV 12 or 13 filter can filter some bacteria, viruses, and odors.  Since the prices jump up dramatically at MERV ratings higher than 11, and the increased efficiency is only minimally incremental, using filters with more than a MERV 11 rating is probably not cost effective, unless there is some particular medical need.  In the chart, those shown in the “green zone” in the cost column represent the best value on a price vs. performance scale.

Air Filter Fundamentals

You’ve heard us preach over and over about how important it is to change your air filters on a regular basis. But there are so many to choose from these days and prices vary widely!  We’ll help you make sense of it all in this and two subsequent posts on this subject.

What’s the purpose?

The purpose of an air filter is to keep the coils and heat exchanger inside your HVAC system clean. Dirty coils and heat exchangers can make the system work harder and cause it to be replaced earlier, so keeping the filter clean helps prolong the life of your HVAC system. Since the air in your house circulates past these filters, they also affect the quality of the air you breathe. People with allergies or asthma are especially sensitive to airborne particles like pet dander, pollen, mold and dust, and the right filter will filter out these particles.

What is a MERV rating?

When it comes to air filters, the most important thing to look for – besides the correct size for your particular system – is the MERV rating. MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. It is a measurement standard designed in 1987 by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) to rate the effectiveness of air filters. The MERV rating is a number from 0 to 20, with most residential air filters in the 4-12 range. The higher the MERV rating, the more efficient the filter is, and the greater percentage of particles it can capture. MERV is an industry standard rating, so it can be used to compare filters made by different companies.

As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. Often HEPA filters are rated in the range of MERV 17 to 20, and are the most expensive types of filters. But here is one instance when the most expensive may not be the best!  Most residential HVAC systems may not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate higher efficiency filters, such as those greater than MERV 16. Always check your HVAC manufacturer’s recommendations.

Installation Affects Performance

How a filter is installed also effects its performance. If a filter is installed such that air bypasses the filter, its effectiveness will go down substantially, so make sure the filter is the right size and it’s a snug fit. Plus, most filters are directional, meaning you have to install them facing the right direction. Check for the arrow which indicates the direction of air flow, and install the filter with the arrow pointing towards the duct. Here’s another tip: If you have your HVAC system’s fan set to “auto” then the air is only going past the filter when your system kicks on. By setting it to “on” the fan will continually move air across the filter, so the air you breathe will be continually filtered.

Most Important Thing

The most important thing to remember about home air filters is to change them regularly. Even the highest-quality filter won’t work if it is clogged with particles!  Check the filter manufacturer’s guidelines, as different filters are meant to be changed at different intervals. Plus, if you’re doing remodeling, there is construction going on, or you have pets, you will need to change your filters more frequently to compensate for the extra dust and residue in the air. Mark the date of installation along the filter’s frame, so you can clearly see when it was last changed.

Are HVAC Service Contracts Worth the Money?

Well, the short answer is, “it depends.”  Ask yourself these questions:

What is included?

If the contract is very cheap, it may be just a ploy to get a technician into your house and try to sell you something you don’t need.  However, if the contract entitles you to a discount on parts or labor, or priority service or emergency/after-hours support, then it might be very well worth it!  If a system is going to break down, it will typically do so at extreme temperatures: the air conditioning will fail on a very hot, humid day, or the heat will fail during a prolonged stretch of frigid weather.  These are times when you can ill afford to be without a working system and when all HVAC companies are inundated with calls.  Without having a company that will put you to the front of the line, you might find the wait with any company you call will be measured in days, not hours!  Additionally, most HVAC companies will charge extra for after-hours support.  You could wind up paying up to twice the labor charges for getting your system serviced on a Saturday versus getting it serviced on Monday.  But in extreme temperatures, you may not be able to wait until Monday!  So, if your service contract entitles you to no additional up-charges for after-hours emergencies, the savings in the labor on just one visit could be worth it.

How old is your unit?

If you have a brand new unit (less than 6 years old), the chances of it breaking down might be less than if you have a unit that is more than 10 years old.  Also, if the unit is still under warranty, then it could be that some portion of parts and/or labor may be covered by the warranty.  But be aware that manufacturers may not honor the warranty if they think the unit has not been properly maintained by the homeowner. Having a service contract where you can prove the unit had regular preventive maintenance might make all the difference.  Certainly, if you have an older unit, or a unit with a history of previous failures, having a service contract might be a smart move!

How diligent are you in doing preventive maintenance?

If you’re following the tips we provide on our HVAC News page, videos, and in our Fall Maintenance eBook, and are diligent about changing filters on time, cleaning the coils, keeping the condensate line clear, and doing other recommended tasks yourself, then you might not gain that much from having a service contract, especially if it only includes these same types of services.  Of course, some preventive maintenance tasks require special equipment, measuring devices, certifications or licensures (such as adding refrigerant to a unit), so there’s no such thing as never needing service.  But if you’re pretty handy and diligent about doing all you can, you certainly will lessen the chances of some things going wrong.

Consider Potential Savings

Annual maintenance is vital to keep your HVAC system in good working condition and at peak efficiency, so you’ll benefit by (a) avoiding big repairs bills, since minor problems could be spotted before they escalate, (b) lowering your utility bills, since your unit will be running more efficiently, and (c) extending the life of your system, so purchasing a new system can be delayed. Like your car, it is cheaper to maintain it in good working order than to deal with large repair bills when it breaks down.

Read  the Fine Print

Always read the contract, so you understand exactly what’s included, and what’s not.  For example, if you purchased a service contract from the gas company thinking it will cover your furnace maintenance, you may find it only covers repairs to the gas lines from the street up to the furnace; the gas company won’t be coming out twice a year for tune-ups and regular preventive maintenance on your HVAC unit.

Consider the Company, Not Just the Price

Remember, the service contract is only as good as the service provider backing it up. Are they honest, trustworthy, and reputable? Are their technicians trained, certified, licensed and insured?  Do they have experience with the type of equipment you have?  Do they treat their customers with respect?  Do they have good online reviews by homeowners (or business owners) and by the Better Business Bureau (BBB)?  Have they been in business a long time?  If you base your service decisions solely on price, you may not be getting a good value for your money.

Vents, Registers, & Grilles

Whether you call them vent covers, floor registers, or air grilles, this article deals with the part of your HVAC’s ducts that you see in the various rooms of your house.  These may be located along the floor, baseboard, or wall, and vary in size depending on the size of the ductwork.  The purpose of a vent grille is to protect the ductwork from damage and tears from things falling into it such as a person’s foot or from scratching by pets or sharp objects – while at the same time allowing air to pass.

A Decorating Statement

It’s become a high-end decorating statement to have vent grilles specially coordinated with your dêcor.  Whether you shop at Home Depot or a boutique home accessories store, you’ll see vent covers in a variety of materials, colors, finishes and designs.  Materials can be brass, bronze, cast iron, metal, steel, or wood, and they can cost anywhere from $3.00 each to $100-200 each!  Regardless, they all serve the same function and there’s more to them than just the aesthetic qualities.

Air Flow Issues

First and foremost, ensure the vents are open and unblocked by drapes or furniture. Vacuuming or stepping on a floor register could inadvertently close the register, making your HVAC system not work properly, so if you’re having uneven heating or cooling, the vents/registers are the first thing to check.

When should vent covers be replaced?

Vent covers only need replacing if they become damaged (bent), corroded (rusted), or will not stay open.  Otherwise, a periodic cleaning is all they need, using a cleaner appropriate for the type of material and finish.

How often should the vent covers be cleaned?

They should be cleaned whenever they need to be, but a minimum of twice per year fall and spring is ideal.  In high traffic or dusty environments, you may want to clean them each time you replace your air filters (minimum of every 3 months).

Protect the Ductwork

If you are embarking on a home improvement project, such as painting a room, doing drywall repairs, or sanding/refinishing wood floors, steps must be taken to protect the ductwork from paint, sand/dust, flumes, tools, and damage.   Remove the vent registers prior to beginning work. Then, cover the duct completely with a barrier material that can be taped all around. A large plastic garbage bag also works very nicely. If there is danger of someone walking or positioning a ladder or tools near a duct that is covered in this fashion and thus falling in and damaging the duct put the vent grille back on top of the register.  If you have the high-end designer vents (brass, etc.), consider getting a couple of the cheap vent grilles to use temporarily during your home improvement project, so your “good” vent grilles won’t inadvertently be damaged.  The last thing you want is someone putting a foot through the duct or tools falling in and tearing a hole in the duct!

Why it’s so important

Tears in the ductwork or any holes require immediate attention. They will cause your HVAC system not to function properly, and your system will not cool or heat very well.  The conditioned air (the air you paid to heat and cool) will be leaking out and mixing with unconditioned air, which is then blown back through your house.  Not only is there a lot of lost energy – costing you extra money but your HVAC system will be over-worked and wear out quicker.  You may also develop a pest problem from crawling insects, rodents, or reptiles which can come through the holes in the ducts into your home. Over time, you may also develop an odor and moisture problem.  If you are experiencing any of these issues, a hole in your ductwork may be your culprit!

If you are building a new home or an addition, make sure the contractor seals all the ductwork before the drywall is installed. It is almost impossible to clean drywall dust out of ducts, so the best solution is to keep them protected from sources like this from the outset.  For more information on duct cleaning, see our earlier post.

7 Things You Should Never Do

One of the reasons we write this HVAC News column is to empower you with information.  Many times that means telling you how to do things yourself to save money on your HVAC maintenance or energy bills.  But this time, we’re emphasizing a few things you should never do because they can be harmful or cause injury to you or your HVAC system.  As we always say, knowledge is power!

  1.  Do not cover your outdoor HVAC unit.  Many people falsely believe they should cover their outdoor unit to protect it from the elements, like rain and snow.  The only time it may be covered is if it’s turned completely off.  While the unit is on and operational, it must have good air flow all around it in order for it to operate, and you will damage the unit if you operate it with a cover on.  It’s ok for the unit to be located underneath an overhang, as long as there are no obstructions for about 3 feet all the way around it.
  2. Do not use a de-humidifier in the winter or a humidifier in the summer.  In the winter, the heat removes the air’s natural humidity, and the dry air increases static electricity, makes respiratory passages uncomfortable (aggravating allergy and asthma symptoms), causes itchy skin, damages the woodwork and wood flooring in your home (causing cracking/splitting), and increases your energy bills.  That’s why you want to use a humidifier (not de-humidifier) during the winter. Here in TN, we naturally have high humidity in the summer so it would be counter-productive to use a humidifier in the summer, plus it would increase mold and insects.  Air-conditioning helps you feel more comfortable in part by taking the excess humidity out of the air, and using a de-humidifier (not a humidifier) can help even more!
  3. Do not use your fireplace as your main heat source.  Some people think that in cold weather, it will help keep their house warmer if they use their fireplace in addition to their HVAC system.  This is dead wrong.  The fireplace causes already warmed room air to be sucked up the chimney and thus makes the house colder… and causes you to use more energy (increasing your utility bills).  The fireplace may be a nice touch for “ambiance” for a few minutes, but should not be used as the main heat source unless it is an emergency and all your heat and power is out.  Additionally, using the fireplace greatly increases indoor air pollution (particulate, soot, and toxic chemicals in the air), and can trigger allergies.
  4. Do not over-size your HVAC system.  When purchasing a new system, it is easy to think bigger is better, but not so when it comes to HVAC systems!  A properly-sized piece of equipment that’s not too large is going to work much more efficiently in maintaining better and more even comfort in your home.  Check out our previous post about this issue here.
  5. Do not ignore small issues like smells, sounds, leaks or minor heating/cooling problems.  These have a way of becoming big problems before too long, and the longer the issue persists, the more money it may wind up costing you.  Money Magazine recommends the best thing you can do to save money is have regular maintenance of your HVAC system twice per year.  Don’t bury your head in the sand and hope for the best.
  6. Do not block registers, air returns, or forget to change your air filters.  These are the number one reasons HVAC systems fail or have problems like uneven heating and cooling.  Set up a reminder on your computer or smartphone to change air filters a minimum of every 3 months. If you’re blocking registers in an effort to deflect air to the rooms that need it most, then read our post on uneven heating and cooling solutions here.  It’s better to get to the root cause of the problem than to deal with a symptom of the problem in this manner, as it will only harm your HVAC system and shorten its life if you block registers or air returns.
  7. Do not turn off your heat when leaving for vacation during the winter.  You may think you’re saving money by not running the heat when no one is home, but if your pipes burst from the freezing and thawing, you could be coming home to a very costly mess!  In fact, it’s a good idea to turn off the water to the house (via the main cutoff valve), and then open up all the faucets so there is no possibility of frozen pipes.  That’s because if the power goes out while you’re gone, the heat won’t work and, if the outage is prolonged, any liquid in the house could freeze anyway. Turn the icemaker off in your freezer and drain the water line, and drain the water from the toilet tanks.

No Heat? What Should You Do?

Something is not working quite right.  All you know is that it’s cold and your heat does not seem to be working as it should.    Listed below are some common issues, their common causes, and tips on how you may be able to fix the problem yourself, before contacting a service technician for repair.  This can save you time and money.

1.   Filter-related Issues

  • Dirty filters are the most common cause of heating (and cooling!) problems because they restrict airflow.  When the filter is clogged and the system can’t “breathe,” the heat exchanger will overheat and shut off too quickly, and your house won’t warm up. It also causes the blower to run hard and for long periods of time, with little heat coming out, and could shorten its lifespan.  Dirty filters also cause soot buildup in the system, reduces your system’s efficiency (thus costing you more money to operate), and shortens its life.  This is an easy solution: replace all filters. Be sure to check for the correct size (they are sold by size, not manufacturer).  Get the highest-rated ones you can afford to get the best indoor air quality and performance.  Important tip:  When you replace the filters, make sure the arrows on the filter are pointing towards the furnace (away from you).  Never try to skimp by vacuuming and re-using filters.
  • Listen for a whistling sound.  This is a sign that the system is not getting enough air, due to a clogged filter or obstructed airflow.  If you’ve already changed the filters and still hear the whistle, then there may be an obstruction elsewhere in the system. Check to make sure all the registers are open and unblocked.

2.   Thermostat-related Issues  

  • If the display on your thermostat is blank, it could be there is no power to the thermostat.  A tripped circuit breaker or fuse could be the problem, possibly caused by a power outage, power surge, lightning strike, or storm. Reset the tripped circuit breaker or replace the fuse. Make sure all the wires going to the thermostat are connected and not loose.  Useful tip: If you’ve lost your owner’s manual for your thermostat, most major-brand manuals can be found on the web-just go to the manufacturer’s web site.
  • Check that the thermostat is in heat mode. If it’s a programmable thermostat, switch it to manual control and set it for 5 degrees above the room temperature, and wait to see if the heat cycles on.   For programmable thermostats, check that it is set to the correct day and time (am or pm).
  • If your thermostat is battery-powered, or relies on battery for backup power in case of a power outage, it could be that the battery needs replacing.  If you have a programmable thermostat, and had a recent power outage, it could be that without a functioning battery backup, all of your settings have been wiped out by the power outage and the thermostat reverted to its default program.
  • If your thermostat has a switch to control the furnace fan, switch the fan “On” (as opposed to “Auto” or “Off”).  If you do not hear the fan coming on, go to one of the supply registers and see if you can feel any air coming out. If the fan is not running, there may be no power to the furnace.  If the fan runs, but the air coming out is cold, you have a problem with the furnace (or heat pump) itself.

3.   Electrical-related Issues

  • Check to see if the circuit breaker or fuse controlling the heating system is tripped or blown.  If a breaker has been tripped it will be in a position that is between ON and OFF. Reset the breaker by turning it all the way OFF, then back ON. If your home has fuses, check to see if the fuse for the furnace is blown. If so, replace it with the same size and type of fuse. Do not increase the size of the fuse. Important Tip:  If a breaker keeps tripping or a fuse keeps blowing, contact a qualified service technician to inspect your system to determine why you are having problems.
  • Check to see if the switch located near the heating unit is switched on.  This often looks similar to a light switch and easy to mistakenly turn off.  (In one house, the switch was mounted upside down, so the unit was actually “on” when the switch was in the “down” position!).  Useful tip: Most thermostats get their power from the same electrical circuit that feeds the HVAC system.  So, if your thermostat is not responding, turning on the switch by the HVAC may be the solution!

4.    Furnace-related Issues

  • Check to see if the pilot lot has gone out (if your furnace has non-electric ignition).  The solution is to relight the pilot light.  If you are unsure how to this, contact your gas service provider.  If the pilot will not light or stay lit, call a service technician.
  • Most furnaces today have electronic ignition switches rather than a pilot light.  If that gets stuck, try switching the furnace off, wait a minute, then switch it back on. If your furnace has a reset switch, press it. After another minute, you should hear the furnace fire up.
  • Make sure the gas is turned on.  Trace the gas line back from the furnace to the meter, and if there is a handle that’s perpendicular to the gas pipe, turn it so it’s parallel. There should be no obstructions or kinks in the gas line. Also, if you have other gas appliances and they are all working, then you know the gas line is on and not obstructed.
  • Some furnaces have emergency cut-off switches that are activated when a door or service panel is removed. If the furnace door is not closed properly (such as after a filter cleaning, or accidentally bumped open), the cut-off switch will prevent the furnace from coming on.  Check to make sure all access doors are properly closed and secured.
  • Make sure the exhaust line or flue is clear.  I’m not talking about the chimney flue in your fireplace, but the part of your furnace that exhausts to the outside, usually through a metal duct.  Sometimes birds, drawn by the warmth, build nests in it.  To clean it, you’ll need to turn off the furnace first.
  • High-efficiency furnaces can drain off several gallons of water a day during the heating season. If the drain lines become restricted by sediment or mold growth, the furnace will shut down. If the drain line is in unconditioned space, and the water in the line freezes, that, too, will cause the system to shut down.  Check the drain hose, and if it looks dirty, remove it and clean it with a mixture of 25% bleach + 75% water, and after flushing it for several minutes, replace the hose.

5.   Heat Pump-related Issues 

  • Check to see if the outdoor unit is covered in ice. It is normal for the coils to frost-over, especially if there is lots of moisture in the air (mist, rain, or sleet).  Your heat pump has a defrost cycle that normally melts this frost.  However, if the ice on the coils is extremely thick, never seems to melt, and only seems to get worse with time, then there could be a problem with the defrost cycle.  Try switching the system to “Emergency Heat” at the thermostat. Wait until the sun melts the ice off, then try turning the system back to “Heat.”  If you do not hear the heat come on, or if you hear loud noises, turn the system back to “Emergency Heat” (thereby shutting off the outdoor unit) and call for service.
  • When outdoor temperatures stay below about 35 degrees, it is normal for the backup or auxiliary heat light (usually a blue or green light) to come on. The colder the temperatures, the longer this light will stay on. But if the light comes on and stays on, even when outdoor temperatures rise above 35-40 degrees, then there is a problem with your outdoor unit and you’ll need to call for service.
  • Clean away leaves and debris around the outside unit that could be restricting the airflow.  Be sure the outside unit is not covered if you are trying to use it!

Never fear.  If none of these fixes your problem, we’re always here to help!