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Clean Condensate Lines to Prevent Mold

Written by analytics@markalon.com on . Posted in Maintenance. No Comments on Clean Condensate Lines to Prevent Mold

Foul odors coming from your cooling system are more than an unwelcome inconvenience – they can be downright dangerous.  Air conditioner smells are most often caused by mold and mildew growing somewhere within the system.  In this post, we’ll look at how your HVAC system can harbor mold and be responsible for circulating musty odors.

Air conditioners work primarily by dehumidifying the air.  The water drawn out of the air drips from the evaporator coils into a condensation pan (or drip pan) under the HVAC air handling unit. Drip pans are the perfect environments for mold and algae growth, which then can clog the drain lines.  If the moisture is unable to flow out of the system, the water backs up and can overflow the drip pan, causing water damage in your home as well as causing your air conditioner to shut off.  In fact, a clogged condensate drain line is the second leading cause of AC failures.

Regular Maintenance is Essential

As part of regular spring/summer HVAC maintenance, the evaporator coil and condensation lines are cleaned.  Having your system’s evaporator coil cleaned not only works to reduce smell, but the procedure will also improve the efficiency of your air conditioner. The mold, mildew, and dirt deposited on your coil will reduce airflow through the system, lowering its efficiency, and causing your HVAC to fail sooner.

Clean Condensate Pan & Drain Lines

But even if you’ve had your system cleaned at the beginning of the season, the condensate drain line could still become clogged during the course of use.  So, it is important to check the condensate pan and drain lines monthly throughout the air conditioning season.  Here’s how:

  1. Find the condensate pan – usually a metal or hard plastic pan about 3 inches deep – sitting below the HVAC’s air handling unit. In some cases, you may need to remove a metal panel to access it. The condensate pan should be nearly dry.  If it has significant rust all over, or is rusted out in sections, it must be replaced. Plus, signs of rust means there has been water backing up in the pan regularly, which is not a good sign.
  2. If the condensate pan has standing water in it or if there is water on the floor nearby, there is a problem with the condensation drain lines.  If your HVAC unit is in the attic, you might see water coming through the ceiling!  If this is the case, turn the HVAC unit off at the electrical switch and at the thermostat. Using rags or a wet/dry vacuum, remove all the water from the drip pan and around the unit.  Then clean the pan with a mild dish soap or 10% bleach solution.
  3. The drip pan connects to the condensate drain line, which carries water out of the home.  Locate where the drain line exits outside the house.  Be sure there are no obstructions, that the drain line is not buried under dirt or landscaping, and that you can see whether it is dripping.
  4. If no moisture is exiting outdoors even while the system is running or when the condensate pan is full of water, then the drain line is clogged. You may need to use a long, flexible rubber tube through the line – from each end – to dislodge the clog.  Another option is to connect the wet/dry vac to the outlet, and use your hands to make a “seal” around the drain line in order to draw the clog out, or use an AC drain sucker kit.
  5. With the system turned off, flush out the drain using distilled vinegar, hot water with mild dish soap, or a 10% bleach solution. Leave the solution to soak for up to 30 minutes, then rinse the lines with clean water. Be sure you can see the water exiting freely out of the exterior condensate line.
  6. Special cases: If the drain line does not have a direct downward slope allowing it to make use of gravity to help the water exit, you may need to have a small pump added to help push the water out.  If there is a reservoir which holds water until it exits, you may need to add a mild bleach solution, condensate drain line cleaner, or anti-algae tablets to the reservoir on a regular basis to prevent the growth of mold and algae.

If you care about the quality of the air you and your family breathes every day – and want to prolong your HVAC investment – be sure to get your HVAC serviced regularly, and keep that condensation pan and drain clear! If you’re not comfortable with any of the steps listed above, call on Interstate AC service at (615) 832-8500. Rest assured, we’re here to help!

Which HVAC Brand is Best?

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We’ve been in the business almost 20 years now and have installed and serviced a variety of HVAC units. We are not paid by manufacturers to promote their brand(s); instead, we recommend brands based on our vast experience and our customer’s individual needs.  If the customer has a preference for a certain brand, we do our best to provide it.  But, if you really want to know which brand is best, here are the facts:

The Dirty Little Secret

When you look beyond the label slapped on the outside of the unit, you’ll see that most of the internal components are the same.  There are about six HVAC equipment manufacturers in the U.S. who make about 150 different brand names.  Many of them use the same internal components and are produced on the same assembly line in the same factory.  Goodman and Amana are made in the same factory, yet Amana typically costs more.  Carrier, Bryant, Payne, Tempstar, and Day and Night are made in the same factory, yet Carrier has more name recognition due to more advertising.  York and Luxaire are both owned by Johnson Controls.  There’s almost no difference between Trane and American Standard.  Lennox, Ducane, and Concord are all made by Lennox.  Even less obvious is that some of the internal components of all brands are made by just a handful of third-party companies, making many components interchangeable between brands.  With so much the same, what’s the real differentiator?

The Real Differentiator

Unlike many other products, when you purchase an HVAC system, much of the design and engineering occurs on-site (at your home).  Each home is different and presents different challenges with ductwork, physical location, clearances, etc.  No brand, no matter how much it cost and its reputation, will perform reliably if not installed and maintained correctly.

The overwhelming majority of HVAC failures are the result of improper installation or maintenance.  In fact, a good percentage of our business comes from people who hired the cheapest contractor to install their unit, or who think they saved money by not having regular spring and fall maintenance.  There’s a proper way to install and maintain an HVAC unit and it’s worth paying for that expertise, because going with the lowest bid can often cost you later.

Just as not all doctors, mechanics, or hair stylists are the same, neither are all HVAC contractors.  Sometimes, it’s worth going a bit out of your way, or waiting an extra day for an appointment to get a professional you trust.

Pitfalls to Watch For

Watch out for contractors who:

  • will offer you a great deal on a discontinued model,
  • do not provide continuing education for their technicians or use transient laborers,
  • don’t inspect your existing ductwork (if it’s a replacement) or will quote you a price over the phone,
  • won’t be around to honor the service agreement you purchased.

At Interstate AC Service, we use only qualified, licensed HVAC service technicians, we never use undocumented workers, we provide continuing education to our technicians, our technicians are not paid on commission, and we are committed to customer service.

Buyer Beware!

Don’t be fooled by a system that says it will last for 20 years.  Not without regular maintenance it won’t!   If you neglect your system, it won’t matter what brand you buy!  Here are some other things to watch for:

  1. Proprietary Design:  With some brands, the parts may be proprietary and not interchangeable.  So, there may be longer wait times for replacement parts because you can only get them from one manufacturer, and it may make the unit more expensive or difficult to maintain over time.
  2. Specifications:  When comparing units, be sure you’re comparing apples to apples.  Comparing a SEER 14 unit to a SEER 21 unit is not valid, because each is built to different specifications and their cost to operate varies widely.  Be aware that not all manufacturers offer units with the same SEER rating (Don’t know what a SEER is? Check out our post What’s Your SEER?).
  3. Features:  Look at the extras that may be rolled into the price.  Is part of what you’re paying for the extended warranty?  A bigger thermostat screen might not be worth paying extra for, but a quieter unit may be… only YOU can determine what features are of value to YOU.
  4. Reviews:  Few people will go online to write something positive about an air conditioner, heat pump, or furnace.  It’s only when it doesn’t work that people typically feel compelled to write a review.  Keep in mind when reading reviews, you cannot know reliably what the circumstances were.  Most failures are not due to the workmanship inside the unit but to the faulty installation and maintenance.  Did the installer install a mismatched AC condenser and evaporator?  Was the unit maintained under a service contract the entire time?  Take the reviews online with a grain of salt!
  5. Allegiances: Use an impartial contractor – one that is licensed to install and service all major brands.  A “factory-authorized dealer” for a single brand can only offer you the prices and features of that brand, even if that might not be best for your needs.  Not having a vested interest in one particular brand means you’ll have more options. [Note: Interstate AC Service is licensed to install and service all major brands – both residential and commercial.]

Bottom Line

The most important aspect of your HVAC system is not the brand you choose, but the contractor!  Except for minor differences, all brands are fairly comparable, but it’s the installation and service that matters.  Unfortunately, buying a “top” brand (one you’ve heard of or has good reviews) doesn’t matter much when it comes to HVAC units.

If you live in the Nashville or surrounding area, and need help with an HVAC issue at your home or business, know you can call on Interstate AC service at (615) 832-8500.  We’ll provide unbiased, professional service you can trust. We never forget we’re here for you!

Why is AC Capacity Measured in Tons? And What is a BTU?

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When sizing up a new air conditioner, heat pump, or HVAC unit, it is common to hear the pros throw around terms involving tonnage, saying for example, you need a 3-ton or 4-ton unit.  For reference, 4 tons is about the weight of an adult elephant!  But don’t be alarmed: they’re not talking about the weight of the unit!  This is a throw-back from the 1800’s and the term stuck.  You may also hear pros refer to the capacity of HVAC units in terms of BTUs.  Did you know these terms are related?  Here’s how they originated:

Historical Perspective

Before the modern air conditioner was invented, people used to cool buildings in the summertime using ice harvested from rivers and lakes. Gathering the ice from farther and farther north and shipping it down south, or storing it from winter until summer, meant a lot of ice was lost to melting.  A BTU, which stands for British Thermal Unit, is the amount of heat required to raise 1 pound of liquid water 1 degree.  But, when water is below freezing (less than 32 degrees Fahrenheit), the amount of heat needed to melt ice is 143 BTUs per pound.

How the Math Works Out

A ton weighs 2,000 pounds, so to melt a ton of ice it takes (143 BTU/lb) x (2,000 lbs) = 286,000 BTUs.  How quickly the ice will melt depends on how quickly you heat it.  If you apply the heat uniformly over a 24 hour period, the ice will have absorbed (286,00 BTU) / (24 hours) = 11,917 BTUs per hour.  That number is generally rounded up to 12,000 BTU/hr.  So, a one ton air conditioning unit has the capacity to cool up to 12,000 BTU/hr.

Sizing an AC Unit for Your Home

When comparing costs of different HVAC units, be sure you are comparing similarly-sized units.  Central air conditioning units frequently have the capacity coded into the model number: for example, model RDR36 would be a 36,000 BTU unit, or expressed in tonnage – with 12,000 BTUs being the heat needed to melt 1 ton of ice – the model RDR36 would be a 3-ton unit (= 36,000 / 12,000).

Multiple Factors Affect Sizing

If you have a 2100 sq.ft. home, a 2-ton heat pump will not be adequate; you’ll need maybe a 3.5 or 4 ton unit. Here’s where having a professional who can do a site visit helps. There are many things that contribute to sizing an HVAC system, other than the number of square feet you want to cool.  Here are just a few:

  • How well the house is insulated and when it was built
  • The numbers and sizes of the windows and doors in the house
  • The color of the roof: darker ones absorb more heat
  • The height of the ceilings
  • The overall shape of the home: long narrow houses lose more heat (through walls) than a more square house of the same size.
  • The size of AC’s condenser, and whether it is positioned in the shade or in the sun
  • The efficiency of the cooling unit, often expressed as a SEER rating, or seasonal energy efficiency ratio (see our post What’s Your SEER?).

Moral of the Story

Knowing the number of BTUs that will be required to heat and cool your house effectively is not only important in choosing the right size furnace and air conditioning system, but it can also tell you whether your existing system may be too large or too small… yes, a system that is too large will not cool effectively, so bigger is not always better! (read our post Think Bigger is Better?)  Now that you know that tonnage does not refer to the weight of the unit, and how to convert from tons to BTUs, you can more readily compare units. Proving yet again that knowledge is power!

If you live in the Nashville and surrounding area, and need some help figuring out the right BTUs and tons for your home, we’ll be happy to help.  Plus, if you haven’t had your spring tune-up yet, now’s the best time!  Call on us at 615-802-2665.

Be Pro-Active With an Off-Season Replacement

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It’s no surprise that the demand for air-conditioners is highest in the summer, and the demand for furnaces is highest in the winter.  If you have an old or failing HVAC system, it will likely go out when it is stressed the most – on the coldest or hottest day of the year – when the demand is greatest.  Well, that’s when everyone else is calling for service, too!  So you may find, no matter what HVAC company you call, they won’t be able to get to you right away.  [If you’ve ever had the unfortunate experience of needing a tow truck after slipping on snowy/icy roads, you know what I mean!]

Be Pro-Active!

The best time to get a new furnace is in the spring and summer, and the best time to get a new air-conditioner is in the fall and winter.  Of course, if you’re replacing an entire system – like a heat-pump that is used for both heat and air – then the best time is during the “in-between” seasons – spring and fall – when systems are less stressed and the HVAC companies are not overrun with service calls.

Benefits of Being Pro-Active

Being pro-active has many added benefits:

  1. You may get off-season discounts or manufacturers’ rebates.  Plus, you’ll have time to get a professional analysis done of your home, get 2 or 3 quotes, and do research on the companies.  You won’t be in a “desperate” situation: like having no air conditioning on a day with 90+ degree temperatures and 90% humidity!
  2. It’s less disruptive for the homeowner.  You can schedule the install at a convenient time for you, and you won’t have to worry about being down (without heat or air) when it’s most needed!  Face it: it’s much less of an “inconvenience” to be without heat or air (while your old system is being removed and your new system is being installed) when it’s not freezing cold or blazing hot out!
  3. It gives you time to research the various kinds of systems, and the various features, to find the one best for you.  When it’s 7 degrees out and you’ve been without heat for 12 hours, you’re not going to be in much of a “shopping” mood and may wind up getting whatever is readily available and can be installed quickly, rather than the best system to meet your needs.

Think Spring!

If you know your HVAC system won’t stand another winter or summer… don’t just let it slip your mind as we approach spring.  That’s when you SHOULD be thinking: now’s the best time to replace it!  Remember, the best time to buy a new system is before your existing system fails, and before the extreme hot or cold weather arrives.

If you need heating or air-conditioning service, no matter the season, call on Interstate AC Service at 615-802-2665.  We’re here to provide all of Nashville and surrounding areas with professional , dependable HVAC system service and installation.

HVAC Iced Up?

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One of the common problems we encounter is a heat pump that has iced up.  A heat pump in good condition should be able to operate in below freezing temperatures without icing over, so why does this happen?

Things to Eliminate

Here are some circumstances that cause icing which you may be able check, fix or eliminate:

  1. Check to make sure the outdoor unit is not blocked by leaves or covered in any way.  Some people mistakenly think that covering the outdoor unit helps protect it from bad weather in the winter, but this is dead wrong. It always needs proper airflow around it.
  2. Check to make sure you do not have water dripping into the unit by a leaking or blocked gutter.  As temperatures drop, that water will harden into ice and could cause the fan blades to cease up.
  3. Check to make sure there is room for water to drain away from the unit… that it hasn’t sunken into the ground.  If water pools around the unit, it will freeze as temperatures fall, and the ice will impede the operation of the unit.
  4. Check to make sure that nothing is restricting airflow inside the house, such as dirty filters or blocked vents.

If you’ve eliminated these as possible sources of the problem, then it could be a mechanical or electrical problem inside the unit itself.  First, let’s look at how a heat pump should work.

How Heat Pumps Work

The refrigerant inside the heat pump transfers heat back and forth as needed. Even in the winter, there is heat that can be extracted from the outside air to help heat the inside of your home.  But to do so, the refrigerant needs to get very cold… much colder than the outside temperature.  When coils get this cold, water vapor in the air will start to crystalize into ice around them. To prevent ice build-up, the heat pump will periodically go into a defrost mode.  A valve switches so that the outdoor evaporator becomes the condenser.  This allows the coils to get warm enough to melt any ice that may have formed.  While in defrost cycle, the fan turns off so you won’t get cold air blowing on you, or a second-stage heater comes on to offset this cold air.  After the outdoor unit reaches a certain temperature, or after a certain amount of time goes by, the valve switches back and the system returns to normal heating mode, reversing the evaporator and condenser. This cycling on and off happens transparently to the user while the heat pump is in use.

Reasons Heat Pumps Ice Up

  1. Perhaps the most common reason heat pumps ice up, is that the reversing valve gets stuck.  This prevents the heat pump from going into its defrost cycle and the ice on the outdoor coils continues to accumulate until it impedes the turning of the fan blades.
  2. If the reversing valve is fine, it could be that something is wrong with the defrost timer, sensor, or control module, so that the defrost cycle is not completing or not happening often enough or not being triggered at all due to a faulty thermostat or sensor.
  3. If the system is low on refrigerant or the outdoor fan motor dies, this could also cause the system to ice up.

Each of these reasons will likely necessitate a service call.

In the Meantime…

If you can visually see your outdoor unit has iced over, turn the unit off.  If you are able to, turn on the emergency heat mode until help can arrive.  Do not continue trying to run the unit “normally” as this will only cause more damage, and don’t wait too long before seeking help, as this may increase the extent of repairs that are necessary.  Do not try to pick off the ice with a sharp object, as the coil and fins will damage very easily, and you may cause a refrigerant leak.

Prevention

As with most HVAC systems, problems with a heat pump can often be prevented with proper maintenance.  Getting a fall maintenance check before the worst of the cold weather sets in, and getting a spring maintenance check before the heat of the summer, will help lessen the probability that you’ll find yourself all iced up!

If your HVAC system needs attention and you live in the Nashville area, call on Interstate AC Service at 615-802-2665.  We’re here for you.

HELP! My Heat is Blowing Cold Air!

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We’ll frequently encounter a caller complaining about their heating system blowing cold air.  We may ask a few other questions but it comes down to this: what temperature is the thermostat set to and what temperature is it reading in the house?  The answer to those questions can often expose the problem without a service call.

Gas Furnace vs Electric Heat Pump

Suppose the caller tells us that the thermostat is set to 70 degrees and the room temperature is reading around 70 as well, but they still feel cold air blowing from the system.  This is often a clue that this homeowner is experiencing their first winter with a heat pump instead of a furnace – in other words, electric heat rather than gas heat.  Here’s the real issue: Gas heat is much hotter coming out of the vents than electric heat.  A gas furnace puts out 130 to 140 degree air.   In contrast, a heat pump may only put out air at about 85-92 degrees. But regardless of the heat source, both types of heating systems are able to maintain the inside house temperature at 70 degrees.  Our body temperature is normally 98.6 degrees.  Gas heat puts out air that is much hotter than our body temperature, so it feels warm.  Electric heat puts out air lower than our body temperature, so by comparison, it feels cold.  Additionally, because gas heat puts out hotter air, it does not need to blow as hard or as long as electric heat to achieve the same room temperature.  Frequent blowing causes evaporation from the skin which naturally cools the body, and may make us feel chilled.  So, if this is your first winter with a heat pump, and the air temperature is keeping close to what whatever you’ve set the thermostat to, there likely is no problem with your heating unit.  It just might take some getting used to.

Switch Fan to AUTO

Here’s another possibility:  Remember how we said blowing air helps cool you?  In the summertime, it is often helpful to turn the fan setting on your thermostat to “On” – so it runs all the time – rather than “Auto” – where it only blows when the unit kicks on.  But in the winter, you’ll want to set the fan back to “Auto”.  Just like on a windy day, blowing air makes us feel colder than the actual air temperature.  In between the heat cycling on, the air inside the ducts may cool below the “usual” heated air temperature, so if the fan is on all the time, it will be blowing cooler air at you until the heating unit kicks back on.  Avoid a service call by just manually switching the fan setting on your thermostat to “Auto” in the winter.

Service Call? Things You Can Check

But, if the room air temperature is really well below the thermostat setting, then you may indeed have a problem!  The outdoor unit may have iced up, or your system may have a bad reversing value or compressor, or the refrigerant may be low (yes, you still need refrigerant for heat!).  Any one of those things will likely require a service call.  But here are some things you can check and might be able to fix yourself.  Is the thermostat switched to cool mode instead of heat mode?  Turn it off, and then flip it to heat mode.  If your ductwork goes through an attic, crawl space or basement, are there open windows in those areas?  Does the ductwork have a hole in it or has it become separated from the main trunk?  Those things will need to be fixed before it’s possible to determine whether there is an actual mechanical problem with your heating system.

Not As Warm As You’d Like?

If you live in the Nashville or surrounding area, and your heating unit is not keeping you as warm as you’d like, give us a call at 615-802-2665. We’re here for you.

Should I Turn Off My AC While On Vacation?

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Cooling an empty house – either when you’re gone during the day at work, or when you’re away for an extended vacation – seems like a bad idea since it uses electricity and energy, and wastes money. So, it’s natural to assume that the best way to save money is to turn it off when not in use, right?  Not so! Here’s why:

While you’re gone, the house heats up, but it does so unevenly – with some areas or materials retaining pockets of cooler air and others having pockets of warmer air.  This can cause condensation inside the walls, around pipes and around windows, while indoor humidity rises.  In Tennessee, it’s like we always say: it’s not the heat, it’s the humidity!  The increased humidity in your home attracts bugs and greatly accelerates mold growth.  Over time, this moisture and mold can damage a house, causing fowl smells, wood deterioration and warping, buckling of wallpaper, peeling paint, and can damage sensitive artwork, electronics, and bottled wine.  High humidity also greatly increases allergens in the air – bacteria, mold, fungus, and dust mites –  which get deposited in your living space.  Remember: the number one thing air conditioning provides is dehumidification!

What’s the Solution?

The best solution is to turn the air conditioning down a few degrees but not completely off when not in use.  If you’re going to be gone for less than 12 hours, we recommend turning the thermostat up by no more than 4-6 degrees.  This way, you won’t come home to a humid, stuffy house and your air conditioner will not have to work very hard to cool the house down to your “normal” setting.  On the other hand, if you’re going away on vacation for a week, we recommend turning your thermostat up by no more than about 7-10 degrees.  This will allow you to save the maximum amount on cooling without risking damage from humidity.  A good rule of thumb to keep humidity at bay is to never set your thermostat higher than 82 degrees.

Programmable Thermostats to the Rescue!

Here’s where having a programmable thermostat is ideal.  You can set it to automatically be a few degrees higher during the portions of the workday when you are away, so you won’t need to remember to do this manually each day. Most thermostats also have an “away” setting you can use while on vacation.  Don’t want to come home to a hot house?  Many smart thermostats give you the ability to reset the temperature remotely, so you can turn down the temperature a couple of hours before you return.

Other Summer Vacation Tips

Do not steam clean carpets during the summer. This will increase humidity and cause moisture to be retained in the carpet and padding (especially if you’re turning the thermostat up!), and thus increases the mold and allergen problem.  It’s best to clean carpets during the winter months, when humidity is lower, and room heat can aid in drying the carpet and pad more quickly.

Do not leave exhaust fans on while you’re on vacation.  This only serves to exhaust the already cooled air and makes your air conditioner work harder.

Remove any standing water in the house – whether from a pet’s water dish (assuming you’re not leaving your pet behind), or in saucers around plants.  Water your plants the night before and pour out any excess water just before leaving.  Many plants are able to take in moisture from the humidity in the air, and leaving standing water around only attract bugs and mold… especially if you are raising the thermostat up several degrees.

Check out our many posts for more helpful tips to get the most out of your heating and air-conditioning year round.  If you live in the Nashville and surrounding area, Interstate AC Service is here for you!  Call on us at 615-802-2665.

Protecting Your HVAC from Storms

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In Middle Tennessee, destructive storms are not only the norm, but becoming more frequent.  Tennessee has already had more tornadoes so far this year than all of last year or the year before!  Your HVAC system is the single most costly system in your home – not just in yearly maintenance and energy costs, but also when it comes to replacing it.  Although you cannot prevent tornadoes, snow/ice storms, wind, hail, rain, lightening, and floods, you can help prevent some of the associated HVAC-related repair or replacement costs by taking a few precautions.  This post will provide useful tips for protecting your HVAC before and during a storm, as well as tips for dealing with some common problems after the storm has passed.

Before the Storm

In the spring (before “tornado season”) and in the fall (before snow and ice hit), go through this checklist:

Anchor the outdoor unit. Your outside AC equipment should be installed on a level, raised, pad.  Ensure water does not pool near the unit during a heavy rain by ensuring downspouts are routed far away from the unit, that there is an adequate gravel border around the pad, and the land is sloped for optimal drainage.

Remove projectiles.  In Nashville, it is not uncommon to find your neighbor’s lawn furniture blown into your yard after a storm, or to have tree limbs fall on your property.  Secure or store any loose items from your yard such as lawn furniture or grills that can be blown into the outdoor unit. Remove or trim all bushes, trees and dead branches that could fall onto the unit in a storm.

Install hail guards.  It has become commonplace for Tennessee to get hail along with rain and winds. Impacts from hail can be particularly damaging to the fins and refrigerant coil of the condensing unit.  Hail guards are thick metal “netting” that can stay in place year-round and still allow operation of the system (unlike covers!). They can be installed with hinges so they can be easily removed for servicing the unit.

Prevent electrical shorts.  Be sure to cover and secure any wires between the outdoor unit and the house so that they are not exposed.  If they get wet or frayed, they could short out!  Over time, even insulated wires can deteriorate by normal sun and temperature changes.  Styrofoam “noodles” with hollowed out centers for wrapping around wires) are one way to keep the wires protected, and they can easily be cut to any length and taped shut with weather-proof tape.

Install surge suppression.  Storms often cause electrical disturbances or fluctuations in power (so-called “surges”).  To protect your HVAC equipment, install a high-quality surge protector that will automatically turn off your HVAC system to protect it from damage if there’s a spike in the line voltage. Consult an electrician to install a surge protector at the circuit breaker box. This can prevent expensive repairs due to blown fuses, burnt capacitors, and fried compressors.

Install a sump pump, if necessary.  Basement floods are a major cause of HVAC system problems. Protect your equipment by installing a sump pump to automatically detect and remove water. Consult a water-proofing professional to address your foundation and basement issues.  Keeping the basement and crawlspaces dry will also prevent mold from being drawn into the ductwork.

During a Storm

With all the weather alerts provided by various media – on TV, on our phones, and audible sirens – we often have at least a few minutes advance notice of impending destructive weather.  First and foremost, you need to seek shelter, but if time allows here are some steps you can take to prevent HVAC equipment damage:

  • Turn it off.  Avoid using your HVAC during a storm. Power surges might cause damage to its electronics. Shut off your heating and cooling system at the thermostat first, then at the circuit breaker. This ensures your AC or furnace will not inadvertently turn on during a storm, possibly damaging the coils or fins.
  • Cover it.  Most outdoor condensing units are not sheltered from the weather. Air conditioner covers (usually made of heavy canvas or vinyl) are relatively cheap, available online, and offer good protection from hail storms and snow and ice.  However, the system must remain off while it is covered.  Prior to turning your equipment back on after the storm, you must remember to remove the cover and any debris that has gathered on or around it.  Tip:  Do not use a tarp or other protective cover that completely covers the unit, as it can cause moisture to build up inside the unit or attract animals seeking shelter.  Leave at least a foot of space around the bottom of the unit to allow it to breathe.

After the Storm has Passed

After the storm has passed, do not immediately switch the HVAC unit back on!  First, inspect your outdoor condensing unit for any signs of damage.  Look for cracks, impacts from hail or flying debris, harm to any of the refrigerant or electrical lines, and remove any debris that has fallen in or around the unit.  Check if there has been any movement or shifting of the unit off the pad, or if flooding and erosion has now caused the system to be un-level.  If you see any of this, call a licensed professional to inspect your system before turning it back on. If any power lines have fallen nearby your unit, do not approach the HVAC unit or turn it on until they are cleared.

But, What if…?

The more typical scenario is that the storm caused a power outage, and when the power was restored, the HVAC did not come back on as expected.  If this is the case, then after visually inspecting the inside and outside units and seeing no damage, follow these steps:

  1. Check the thermostat, to be sure it has power. Turn the thermostat off and then back on, wait a couple of minutes, then change the temperature to a setting that would normally trigger the unit to come on, and give it a few minutes to cycle.  If the unit still does not come on, then turn it off at the thermostat and proceed with step 2.
  2. Check the circuit breaker.  If it has been tripped, flip it off, wait a minute, and flip it back on again.  Then re-try step 1.  If the unit comes on for a short period and then goes off again, or if the circuit breaker is immediately tripped again, proceed to step 3.
  3. Call an HVAC service professional.  If there is evidence of a melted or burned fuse at the fuse box, contact a licensed electrical professional.  In either case, leave the unit turned off until help arrives.

In the event there has been visible damage or the unit has been hit by lightning, make photos of the damaged unit for your insurance company. Most insurance policies cover power surge damage to HVAC units and their associated electronics (thermostat, etc.).  Also, if there is any question, contact an HVAC professional so that something small does not turn into a major expense.  For example, replacing a damaged capacitor is an inexpensive repair but if it is ignored, it can lead to a failed compressor which is an extremely costly replacement.

Whether you need help preparing for a storm or dealing with its aftermath, know you can rely on Interstate AC Service to find the most affordable, effective way to deal with the problem.  If you live in the Nashville or surrounding area, call on us at (615) 832-8500.

5 of the Best HVAC Investments You Can Make

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With heating and cooling accounting for roughly 50% of your home’s energy consumption, things that decrease your monthly energy costs or help your HVAC to be more efficient are the best investments you can make.  Here are the 5 best ways to optimize your HVAC investment:

1.  Adding Attic Insulation

Close to 30% of your energy costs are due to heated air rising and escaping out the attic (during cold weather), and warm air coming in causing your air-conditioning to work harder (during warm weather). Laying insulation is an easy DIY project which can be done in a weekend with fairly inexpensive materials. It is the one most cost-effective thing you can do to improve comfort and lower your bills year-round. Tip: When laying insulation, don’t forget the attic access door, including weather stripping!

2.  Upgrade Your Thermostat

Using a programmable thermostat is one of the best investments you can make to your HVAC system. By automatically setting the temperature down a few degrees when you are away and while you are sleeping, you could save up to 10% per year on energy costs year round, without sacrificing comfort. Upgrading your thermostat can be a DIY project, with companies like Honeywell and Nest offering installation tutorials on their websites, and it takes only minutes. Some new thermostats can be controlled using a smartphone or voice control, and can learn your habits or sense when you’re home, and adjust the temperature accordingly. Tip: Check out our posts on the new crop of thermostats here: Smart Thermostat Comparisons, Giving Away Smart Thermostats, Honeywell Wi-Fi Thermostat Case Study, Smart Thermostats, and Results of Our Smart Thermostat Poll. Let us know if you need help installing one!

3.  Get Your HVAC Serviced

Money Magazine states that regular HVAC system maintenance is one of the best investments you can make.  A professional inspection twice per year can find and fix minor problems before they turn into major ones, and makes sure your system is tuned up to operate most efficiently. Get your system checked before air-conditioning season in the spring, and before heating season in the fall. The bottom line is that regular HVAC maintenance saves you money!  Tip: The easiest thing you can do to help maintain your system is to change out the filters on a regular basis. See our posts: Air Filter Fundamentals, Selecting an Air Filter, Are More Expensive Air Filters Better?

4.  Replace Your HVAC System

If your system is more than 10-12 years old or has become a maintenance hog, you’re best served by investing in a new HVAC system. Since the R-22 refrigerant used by older systems has become increasingly expensive and scarce, an upgrade to a new unit that uses R-410A coolant makes sense. Plus, a new HVAC unit will offer greater efficiency, making your monthly bills much lower (see our post What’s Your SEER?). If you are buying or selling a house, there is no doubt that an up-to-date HVAC system is an attractive value – and an old HVAC system a significant deterrent. On the fence about replacing your system? See our posts Repair vs. Replacement, and Repair/Replacement – What’s the Real Question?

5.  Beyond the HVAC System

Some of the best HVAC investments are things you can do which will lessen the need for your HVAC to work so hard.  Using ceiling fans will allow you to raise your thermostat 4 degrees without sacrificing comfort. Replacing windows with energy-efficient ones, and using caulk and weather stripping around windows and doors will save energy year-round. Replace your incandescent light bulbs with LED lights, which generate less heat. Use curtains or blinds inside and landscaping (trees) outside to lessen the amount of sunlight into the home, particularly on south-facing windows. This can save you up to 25% on summer energy costs. Despite what you may think, closing vents actually strains an HVAC system, resulting in more energy use, not less, so keep them open! Need to section off an area of your home? Consider zoning (see our post Is Zone Control for your HVAC the Answer?).

Let Interstate AC Service help you make wise investments when it comes to heating and air-conditioning. If you live in the Nashville or surrounding area, give us call at 615-802-2665.

3 Tips to Make Your HVAC More Energy Efficient In the Winter Months

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The cold months of winter arrive this week. After the deep freeze we experienced last week, it looks like Middle Tennessee may be in for a challenging winter in 2017. During these long, cold winter months your furnace will work much harder and will require more energy than any other time of year. Fortunately, there are some steps you can take now to make your HVAC more energy efficient and save you money during the winter months!

1. Change the filter.

This is one of the easiest ways to make your furnace more energy efficient. If your filters are dirty the furnace will have to work harder to heat the home. Here’s a helpful resource we put together for choosing the right air filter for your home. We recommend filters with MERV ratings between 8 and 11. They seem to be the most cost-effective.

2. Locate and take care of drafty areas in your home.

A good exercise is to get near a drafty area, close your eyes and imagine dollar bills leaving your home along with the heat. In our previous blog post, 4 THINGS YOU CAN DO NOW TO PREPARE FOR WINTER we took you through some of the most drafty areas of your home and provided some tips on sealing them to prepare your home for winter. Managing your drafts can result in energy savings during the winter months

3. Lower your thermostat while sleeping or away from home.

If you do not yet have a smart thermostat you will need to do this manually. There’s really no need for your HVAC unit to work hard when everyone is sleeping or no one is home. The Department of Energy says You can save as much as 10% a year on heating and cooling by turning your thermostat back 7°-10°F for 8 hours a day- a normal workday!

There are further steps you can take to continue to reduce energy costs in your home but just starting with these 3 will get you off to a good start!

If you need help and live in the Nashville and surrounding area, please call on us at 615-802-2665. The professionals at Interstate AC Service are here for you.