There are many conflicting opinions online about getting your air ducts cleaned. In fact the EPA says there is currently no research on the benefits so they are careful not to make a recommendation either way. Since we are your resource for all things HVAC, we’d like to give you the honest facts- good, bad and ugly, that will hopefully help you make your difficult decision more easy.

3 Good Reasons for Duct Cleaning

1. It never hurts to improve your air quality

Everything in your home will get dirty. Homeowners regularly invest time and money in cleaning dust, dirt and other allergens from many surfaces of our home and removing toxins from our water system. In addition to normal dust and dirt accumulation, any of the following environmental factors will eventually affect your air quality:

• pets
• cigarette or cigar smoke
• water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system
• home renovation or remodeling projects

2. Potential Energy savings

When your HVAC system is clean, it doesn’t have to work as hard to maintain the desired temperature. As pollutants pile up in the system, it has to work much harder, using more energy and costing more to work properly. When your ducts are cleaned out, your HVAC unit uses less energy and leads to improved cost-effectiveness!

3. Mold in these components could be making you sick

Contaminants and air pollutants, such as dander, dust, and chemicals are pulled into the HVAC system and re-circulated on average about 5 to 7 times per day. Over time, this recirculation will cause a buildup of these pollutants in the duct system. These pollutants affect the health of young children and the elderly more than anyone. This is why the National Air Duct Cleaners Association recommends homeowners clean their ducts once every three to five years. Furthermore, if you have allergies or asthma, autoimmune disorders or other respiratory health issues they recommend you consider having it done almost annually.

The Bad and Ugly Side of Duct Cleaning

Duct cleaning is a costly and messy process. To do it right all of the components will need to be removed and everything will need to be cleaned. This includes the supply and return air ducts and registers, grilles and diffusers, heat exchangers heating and cooling coils, condensate drain pans (drip pans), fan motor and fan housing, and the air handling unit housing. This is a very time consuming and costly process. Just running a spinning polyester brush  through the ducts will leave 30% or more of the dirt in the ducts.

If you choose to go ahead with duct cleaning, now may be a good time to schedule it. Right before winter is one of the best times to get your air ducts cleaned out as your ducts will be blowing the most air during the winter months.

**Interstate AC Service does not  provide duct cleaning services.

f you live in the Nashville and surrounding area, please call on us at 615-802-2665. The professionals at Interstate AC Service are here for you.

By mid-summer, you may begin to notice your air conditioner is not cooling as it should and may even be freezing up with visible ice forming on the lines or the condenser coil. This can be a sign there is a refrigerant leak. Perhaps additional refrigerant (a so-called “shot of Freon”) was added at the beginning of the summer and you were hoping it would last the whole season. Now faced with a costly repair, such as replacement of an evaporator coil, you look for a way to postpone this major expenditure. Perhaps you’ve heard about various sealants and leak repair kits available online and in stores, often marketed as homeowner DIY projects, for about $150. Sound like a viable option? We’ll explore the pros and cons.

What is a Leak Repair Kit?

Often sold under the trade name Leak Freeze, Easy Seal, or Super Seal, to name but a few, these leak repair kits are typically composed of: (1) a chemical liquid in a syringe or canister and (2) a short hose injector or applicator. Most of these products are meant to be injected into the refrigerant in your system.  The premise is that the chemical will travel throughout the system wherever the refrigerant goes and seek out the leak and form a seal at those points. But do they really work? How easy is it for a homeowner to use these kits effectively? By using them, can you avoid a professional AC service call?

Understanding the Fine Print

If you read the fine print and detailed instructions that come with many of these kits, they tell you some very important information.

1. They won’t fix very big leaks, only very small leaks. Do you know the size of your leak?  You can’t always judge by how often you’ve needed to add refrigerant in the past, because several small leaks throughout the system can exhaust refrigerant at the same rate as one single larger leak.
2. They require your system be at a certain pressure to use (for example, 40-50 psi). Do you know your system’s pressure? This often requires sophisticated equipment and gages, so you might need to contact a professional anyway. In fact, when you read the fine print, most leak repair kits will say they are designed to be used by HVAC professionals only. Indeed, the instructions can be a bit tricky for someone who doesn’t know their way around a low side service port!
3. Know what you’re getting. Many leak repair kits are made for car AC repair. not home AC repair. Some are meant to be added to the oil in your system, not the refrigerant. Most will only in work in units of a certain size (for example, between 1.5-5 ton) and cannot be used in very small, very large, or commercial (non-residential) systems, though there may be other products for those types of systems.

Important Caveats

Besides the fine print, here are three things you should be aware of:

1. After applying the sealant, you still need to refill the system with refrigerant. Thus, you can’t get around another AC service call and the expense of “another shot of Freon” which can run you $400 or more!  As you know, the cost of the “old style” (R-22) refrigerant has increased greatly in recent years because it is being phased out by government regulations.
2. Many leak repair kit manufacturers recommend applying a drying agent (such as Easy Dry) since the air that has gotten into your system from the leaks will cause corrosion. So, this additional step and cost must be considered.
3. There is no guarantee how long the leak repair will last. If you have an older system with small pinhole leaks, and the product is successful at plugging them up, the chances are very great that new leaks will continue to form and that in a short time, you’ll need to do everything again: spend money on another kit and recharging your system with more refrigerant making you wonder why you’re spending all this money again and again for only a temporary fix!

Testimonials Tell the Story

There is no doubt that you can find testimonials from people who have used these leak repair kits some even HVAC professionals – and they say they got another 5 years of use out of the system, so they were very happy with the results. But it seems there are just as many testimonials of people who have had disastrous results. Most scenarios go something like this: The leak repair seems to work initially and the system is able to hold the refrigerant charge. A few weeks later, the system freezes up and ceases working entirely. The homeowner finds out that the chemical in the leak repair kit caused a clog in the coil or compressor and that this has damaged the system beyond repair. What was once a costly part repair is now a major expense of replacing the entire HVAC system. The buyer has remorse for having wasted time and money.

Our Take on Leak Repair Kits

Using one of these leak repair kits is a poor substitute for having an experienced HVAC technician who will take the time to find out where the leak is coming from, determine how big it is and the cause, and provide a recommendation on how best to repair or replace the affected part(s). We definitely do not recommend trying to use a leak sealant on a newer unit (one less than 10 years old) because the risk of causing more damage is too great. For very old systems where you’re facing a total replacement anyway, perhaps the risk is not as great. But because it’s at best a temporary fix, the time and money you do spend is just postponing the inevitable.

Armed with the facts, you can now make a better decision. As we always say at Interstate AC Service “Knowledge is Power.”

It may surprise you to learn that indoor air pollution is among the top five environmental health risks. That’s why we’ve been devoting a series of posts on air filtration.  If you’ve been watching and listening to our posts, you’ve heard us talk about the MERV ratings of air filters, and how to select the best air filter for your needs. As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. But here is one instance when the buying the best, most expensive filters those with MERV ratings greater than 16 may do more harm than good.

HEPA Filters

Among the most expensive filters are HEPA filters. Higher efficiency filters with a MERV rating of 14 to 16, are sometimes misidentified as HEPA filters.  But true HEPA filters have MERV values of 17 to 20.  HEPA which stands for High-Efficiency Particulate Arrestance – is a special type of filter that, according to DOE standards, filters out 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns in size… that’s 10 times smaller than a MERV 16 filter!  HEPA filters are typically used in biomedical applications to filter out bacteria and viruses.

More Harm Than Good

True HEPA filters those with MERV ratings 17 and above – are normally not installed in residential HVAC systems. A typical residential air handling unit and associated ductwork cannot accommodate HEPA filters. They do not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate the large pressure drop across the dense HEPA filter material. If you install a HEPA filter in an HVAC system not specifically designed for it, it will make your motor work harder because it is getting too much resistance, and this will hamper your airflow, increase fan noise, and cause your system to fail earlier. Check with your HVAC manufacturer prior to upgrading filters to determine whether it is feasible to use more efficient filters.

Let’s Get Real

According to the EPA, using medium-efficiency filters, such as those with a MERV rating of 12-13, are almost as effective as true HEPA filters at removing allergens, with much lower associated system and operating costs, and quieter fan operation.  Furthermore, many air particles never go through your HVAC filter system because they are deposited in your living space on your sheets, furniture, and carpet, for example.  So, you still need to change your sheets, vacuum, and do all those house-cleaning chores regularly to maintain your indoor air quality.

Things You Can Do

Here are some other simple things you can do to improve your indoor air quality:

• Prevent mold by controlling moisture throughout your home.  That means turning on exhaust fans in bathrooms while showering, and making sure your basement and crawlspaces are dry.
• Fix any leaks in your ductwork, in the roof, around windows and doors, and around plumbing fixtures.
• Keep your home smoke-free. Do not smoke indoors, don’t burn candles and incense, and use exhaust fans while cooking.

When you go to a hardware or big box store to purchase air filters you will find a bewildering array of products. 3M, for example, offers 9 different types of filters each with different ratings and at a different price, and then each of those comes in different sizes. It can be confusing, to say the least! We’ll help you make sense of it all, so you can choose the best air filter for your needs.

Size Matters

Size is perhaps the easiest decision: get the size filter that fits the filter holder built into your HVAC system. It should fit snugly, with no air gaps around the filter. Be aware that filters come in thicknesses of 1-inch to 6- inches, with the thicker filters having greater capacity to catch dirt without increasing resistance to air flow and increasing the time between required filter changes.  However, you cannot put a thick filter (4 or 6 inches thick) into your HVAC system if it’s designed to accommodate only a 1-inch thick filter.

Rating Matters

In our previous post, we talked about the MERV ratings of filters.  MERV is an industry standard measurement of filter efficiency.  Individual manufacturers often have their own rating system as well.  3M’s rating is called MPR, which standard for Microparticle Performance Rating.  As with the MERV rating, higher MPR numbers mean a greater percentage of particles and smaller particle sizes will be captured by the filter.

Price vs Performance

How do you decide which MERV rating to get?  Generally, the higher the MERV (or MPR) rating, the more expensive the filter.  For example, the price of a MERV 13 filter is about twice the price of a MERV 8 filter of the same size. 3M offers multiple filters having a MERV 12 rating, but with different MPR ratings, and so even among filters of the same size and MERV rating, the prices can vary.  Which filter to buy depends on how much cleaning you want your filter to do. The lowest price filters at MERV 5 will remove dust, debris and lint. This is the minimum needed to maintain the health of your HVAC system’s heat exchanger and coils.  A MERV 11 filter removes smaller particles such as pollen, dust mites, mold spores, and pet dander. A MERV 12 or 13 filter can filter some bacteria, viruses, and odors.  Since the prices jump up dramatically at MERV ratings higher than 11, and the increased efficiency is only minimally incremental, using filters with more than a MERV 11 rating is probably not cost effective, unless there is some particular medical need.  In the chart, those shown in the “green zone” in the cost column represent the best value on a price vs. performance scale.

You’ve heard us preach over and over about how important it is to change your air filters on a regular basis. But there are so many to choose from these days and prices vary widely!  We’ll help you make sense of it all in this and two subsequent posts on this subject.

What’s the purpose?

The purpose of an air filter is to keep the coils and heat exchanger inside your HVAC system clean. Dirty coils and heat exchangers can make the system work harder and cause it to be replaced earlier, so keeping the filter clean helps prolong the life of your HVAC system. Since the air in your house circulates past these filters, they also affect the quality of the air you breathe. People with allergies or asthma are especially sensitive to airborne particles like pet dander, pollen, mold and dust, and the right filter will filter out these particles.

What is a MERV rating?

When it comes to air filters, the most important thing to look for – besides the correct size for your particular system – is the MERV rating. MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. It is a measurement standard designed in 1987 by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) to rate the effectiveness of air filters. The MERV rating is a number from 0 to 20, with most residential air filters in the 4-12 range. The higher the MERV rating, the more efficient the filter is, and the greater percentage of particles it can capture. MERV is an industry standard rating, so it can be used to compare filters made by different companies.

As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. Often HEPA filters are rated in the range of MERV 17 to 20, and are the most expensive types of filters. But here is one instance when the most expensive may not be the best!  Most residential HVAC systems may not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate higher efficiency filters, such as those greater than MERV 16. Always check your HVAC manufacturer’s recommendations.

Installation Affects Performance

How a filter is installed also effects its performance. If a filter is installed such that air bypasses the filter, its effectiveness will go down substantially, so make sure the filter is the right size and it’s a snug fit. Plus, most filters are directional, meaning you have to install them facing the right direction. Check for the arrow which indicates the direction of air flow, and install the filter with the arrow pointing towards the duct. Here’s another tip: If you have your HVAC system’s fan set to “auto” then the air is only going past the filter when your system kicks on. By setting it to “on” the fan will continually move air across the filter, so the air you breathe will be continually filtered.

Most Important Thing

The most important thing to remember about home air filters is to change them regularly. Even the highest-quality filter won’t work if it is clogged with particles!  Check the filter manufacturer’s guidelines, as different filters are meant to be changed at different intervals. Plus, if you’re doing remodeling, there is construction going on, or you have pets, you will need to change your filters more frequently to compensate for the extra dust and residue in the air. Mark the date of installation along the filter’s frame, so you can clearly see when it was last changed.

Nashville is known for its great music, hot chicken, and unfortunately, its sometimes poor air quality – largely due to ozone, pollens and particulates. Things linger in our air because middle TN sits in a “bowl” surrounded by mountain ridges and vegetation the natural wonders that give this area its beauty. People who are allergy-sensitive know all too well that springtime is approaching!  Of course, you should be changing your air filters on a regular basis at least every 3 months. But, did you know there is more you can do to help the air quality in your home?  Consider installing a whole-house electronic air cleaner.

What is an Electronic Air Cleaner?

This is a device that attaches directly into the HVAC ductwork feeding your whole house. As the name implies, this is an electronic filter not just some folded mesh encased in a cardboard frame like a typical air filter. It works by placing a negative electric charge on airborne particles and a positive electric charge on the media and, because opposites attract, it collects airborne particles like a magnet. To give you some perspective, typical air filters remove particles down to about 750-1000 microns in size, or about the size of the eye of a sewing needle. But, an electronic air cleaner can remove particles less than 10 microns in size a size so small it would require an electron microscope to see!  Particles of this small size stay suspended in air easily and account for 99% of the total number of particles in unfiltered air.

Low Maintenance

Besides dramatically increasing your air quality, electronic air cleaners are low maintenance and economical. They can be easily removed from the ductwork, washed in your dishwasher or sink, drip dried, and re-installed. They do not have to be replaced every 3 months like typical air filters. Some systems offer an integrated LCD display or fault light to remind you when the filter needs cleaning. Runtime on these filters is not based on calendar days, but on the length of time your HVAC system runs. It is recommended that you leave your HVAC system’s fan set to “on” rather than “auto” for maximum air cleaning benefit. Most electronic air cleaners come with a 10-year warranty and use about as much electricity as a 40-watt light bulb.

Electronic Air Cleaner Vs. Electrostatic Filter

Do not confuse electronic air cleaners with electrostatic air filters! Electrostatic filters have a charge applied to them at the factory which is supposed to last the life of the filter, but their efficiency is poor at best and degrades over time. Electronic air filters are made using either precipitator or polarized media technologies, both of which require a power supply. Electronic air cleaners have a continuous charge applied making them very efficient dust magnets!

Other Benefits

In a previous post, we talked about duct cleaning. But, if you have an electronic air filter and well-sealed ducts, you should never need your ducts cleaned, as particles won’t ever get the chance to deposit themselves in the ducts or build up over time. Additionally, your HVAC system’s blower, air conditioning coils, and heat exchanger will be protected from particles and so will last longer and be more efficient. In fact, one electronic air cleaner manufacturer guarantees that if your indoor coil requires cleaning within 10 years of  installing their electronic air cleaner, they will pay to have it cleaned!

Don’t Forget This

Whether you have a whole-house electronic air filter or not, you still need to change your air filters in your return air vents every three months!

It always seems your heat will go out on the coldest day of the year!  Why spend money when you may be able to fix it yourself? Here are a few examples of do-it-yourself easy fixes:

Thermostat

Is the display on your thermostat blank? It could be because it needs a battery, or that the circuit breaker to it has been tripped or you’ve blown a fuse. Reset the tripped circuit breaker, replace the fuse, or replace the battery.  Other thermostat tips:

• Make sure all the wires going to the thermostat are connected and not loose.
• Check that the thermostat is in heat mode. This switch can easily get accidentally bumped while dusting.
• For programmable thermostats, check that it is set to the correct day and time, including the AM or PM designation.  One customer bought a programmable thermostat to save money, with the intent to have the heat backed down while the customer was away at work, and have the heat cranked up at night when the customer was home.  When the customer started freezing at night, they mistakenly thought something was wrong with the heat, when the real culprit was they had the AM/PM designation backwards on their thermostat!
• If you had a recent power outage, it could be that all of the settings on your programmable thermostat have been wiped out.  Often there is a battery backup in these units, so you may need to change the battery and then re-enter your settings.

Furnace

If the heat is out and you do not even hear the fan coming on (no air coming out of the supply registers), there may be no power to the furnace.  This is often due to someone flipping the switch accidentally while cleaning out the attic or basement (areas where the furnace may reside). The switch often looks similar to a light switch and easy to mistakenly turn off.  Just flip the switch back, and you should hear the furnace start up within 3-5 minutes. Other furnace tips:

• Many thermostats get their power from the same electrical circuit that feeds the furnace system, so if your thermostat is blank, turning on the switch by the furnace may be the solution.
• If the fan runs, but the air coming out is cold, you have a problem with the furnace (or heat pump) itself, and may need a service call.
• Some furnaces have emergency cut-off switches that are activated when a door or service panel is removed. If the furnace door is not closed properly (such as after a filter cleaning), or has been accidentally bumped open, the cut-off switch will prevent the furnace from coming on.  Verify all access doors are properly closed.

Electrical

If the switch is on to the furnace and it still doesn’t come on, it could be that the circuit breaker or fuse to the furnace (or heat pump) is tripped or blown.  Reset the breaker by turning it all the way OFF, then back ON. If the fuse for the furnace is blown, replace it with the same size and type of fuse.  Important electrical tip:

• If a breaker keeps tripping or a fuse keeps blowing, contact a qualified electrician to inspect your system to determine why you are having problems.

Filters

A dirty air filter restricts air flow, and the system will work harder and build up pressure. Newer, more efficient furnaces are sensitive to this pressure build up and turn off before the dirty filter can cause further damage. At the very least, a dirty, clogged filter will reduce the heat output of your system. The simple solution is change the filter!   Important tip:

• Don’t try to just vacuum the existing filter and re-insert it. The material inside the filter will still be saturated. Just place the old filter in the trash and insert a new one each time… at least every 3 months.

If none of these DIY fixes addresses your problem, give us a call.  We’re always here to help!

Fall and spring are great times to do small maintenance jobs around the house, before the extreme cold or hot weather sets in.  It is a good idea to make cleaning the vents and ducts part of your yearly spring and fall cleaning routine. After watching the video try out this fun Test your knowledge.

Follow these easy steps:

1. Turn your HVAC system to the off position by flipping the switch on your thermostat, or turn it down to where the system is no longer running. You do not want the system blowing air (in or out) while you are cleaning it!
2. Remove the vent cover or open the grill’s latch to expose the duct.
3. Do a visual inspection of the duct in case there is something that can be retrieved such as an earring, a coin, a pet toy, or other small object which has fallen in. Floor registers are particularly susceptible to things falling in.  Registers on the wall or in the ceiling are probably more susceptible to cobwebs.
4. Using your vacuum cleaner nozzle, a handheld vacuum, or a cloth, remove spider webs or any debris that may have fallen into the duct. Be careful not to damage the ductwork while cleaning it.
5. Clean and replace the register cover.  Then close the grill cover back over the duct.
6. Turn your HVAC system back on by flipping the appropriate switch on your thermostat.

Do this type of maintenance twice per year, as part of your spring and fall cleaning routine. In high-traffic and very dusty environments, or if you’re plagued by lots of pet hair, you may need to do this type of maintenance each time you change your air filters, which for most folks is about every 3 months.

Fall and spring are great times to get an HVAC tune-up, too, to make sure you’re ready for the upcoming heating or cooling season. And don’t forget to change those air filters!

In Tennessee, the humidity can be unbearable at times, making air-conditioning a necessity.  Air-conditioning removes the excess humidity and thus makes us feel more comfortable. But signs your home suffers from excess humidity include: mold, mildew, dust mites, bacteria, rotting or warping wood inside your home (cabinets, wall beams, floors, furniture), or peeling paint; plus, the moisture attracts pests (even snakes!).  What can be done? Perhaps you’ve contemplated getting a dehumidifier, but even the best dehumidifier may not work effectively if too much outside moisture is seeping into your home.

Humidity Checklist

Before making an expensive dehumidifier purchase, be sure you have investigated these issues:

• Check that gutters aren’t clogged and that downspouts are directing rainwater at least 3 feet away from the house. Grade your property so that rainwater flows away from the foundation.
• Keep the duct for your clothes dryer properly vented to the outside, making sure that it isn’t clogged or leaking.
• Run an exhaust fan when showering, and squeegee or wipe down shower walls afterward.
• When cooking, use a range hood or exhaust fan that vents outdoors.
• Use ceiling fans and room fans to keep the air circulated. This will help your air-conditioner be more efficient.
• Look for leaks in your existing ductwork that need to be repaired. Leaks let cool air escape into the attic or crawl space. That air loss creates negative pressure inside, causing it to suck in humid air through cracks. See about getting your ducts tested and sealed.
• Check your plumbing for leaks and condensation, especially in the basement, and insulate pipes.
• If you have extensive water or drainage problems, it may require a sump pump and installing drains outside.

Basements & Crawlspaces are the Most Problematic

Most HVAC systems naturally pull air from the lower areas of your home upwards throughout the living space; thus a damp basement or crawlspace can affect your whole house. Crawlspaces, while they may have fewer cubic feet due to the lower ceiling height are actually harder to dehumidify because they require more airflow (air pressure) to circulate air.  This is why a good crawlspace dehumidifier costs more than an average home dehumidifier. Waterproof your crawlspace and basement, and ensure it is properly insulated.  Fill holes and cracks in concrete block with hydraulic cement and paint the concrete block with a water-proof coating like Dry-Lok. If your crawlspace has a dirt floor, create a vapor barrier to reduce the continual evaporation of moisture from the ground.

Is your HVAC to Blame?

Lastly, your HVAC system itself may be to blame for your excessive moisture problem! If you over-sized your system thinking it would make you cooler and not run as hard in the summer, think again! Air conditioners only dehumidify when they are running, and an oversized unit may not be running long enough to remove the moisture from the air (it cycles off too quickly). Check out a previous post we did on right-sizing your system entitled “Think Bigger is Better? Not When it Comes to Cooling!”

After you’ve addressed these causes of excess humidity, then you can see if a dehumidifier is needed. We did a post recently about central dehumidifiers, so check that out, too!

It’s summer and it’s hot, and with the humidity it’s way uncomfortable!  Your air conditioning may not seem to be cooling as well as it used to, or it seems it’s having to work overtime to get it cool.  Well, you figure, it’s nothing that a shot of Freon can’t fix… how expensive can that be? Unfortunately, a lot!

You see, the federal regulations phasing out the “old” Freon known as R-22 means that there is a very limited supply of it.  Like anything driven by supply and demand, as the supply of R-22 has become more restricted and the demand has gone up, the costs have soared.  A shot of Freon a couple of years ago that cost you only about $50 could cost close to $400 now! Some folks have even nick-named R-22 “Liquid Gold.” Plus, once 2020 rolls around, R-22 production will be phased out entirely, and will be illegal to import or export.

But there’s a bigger issue here. The refrigerant R-22 exists in a closed loop constantly being recirculated inside your system. It is not consumed by the system, so, it should never need replacement.  If your system is running low on refrigerant, that means you have a leak!  Rather than continuing to pay the increased costs to replenish the leaking R-22, the better solution is to find a qualified heating and cooling company to find and repair the leak, wherever it may be.

After the HVAC technician has inspected your system thoroughly, you’ll know whether it makes sense to continue investing in your existing system (fixing the source of the leak and replacing the R-22) or whether it makes better sense to purchase a new system.  New systems no longer use R-22 as a refrigerant they use the more environmentally-friendly R-410A, which is a LOT cheaper!  Plus, new systems have been mandated by the government to be more energy efficient, so you’ll save money in the long run.

Unfortunately, you can’t just put the new refrigerant (R-410A) into an old system designed for R-22.  They operate at different pressures, and your existing evaporator and condenser were not designed to operate at these increased pressures. Plus, R-410A systems require a different type of oil and expansion valve. So, it comes back to the age-old “repair or replace” question.

System leaks can not only harm the environment, but also result in increased operation and maintenance costs.  So, don’t sink a few hundred dollars into Freon that will just leak back out!  Get that leak fixed now!