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4 Things You Can Do Now to Prepare for Winter

We hate to be the bearer of bad news (maybe good news to a few of you) but Winter just happens to be right around the corner. Yes, in this the year 2016, winter will come roaring in like a lion on December the 21st. Also known as 4 days before Christmas! We don’t want you to be blindsided by this event, so today we’re giving you 4 simple steps to take RIGHT NOW to prepare your home for the upcoming cold winter months.

Step 1 Get your fall maintenance check up

The best defense against heating problems is to make sure your system is maintained year-round. Having heating equipment serviced before the heating season can reduce your heating bill and prevent repairs, breakdowns, and ensure your system is operating well.

Step 2 Prepare those hard to heat spaces

Our second recommendation for winterizing your home is to go ahead and prepare those hard-to-heat spaces! We all have that one or 2 rooms that just don’t heat as well as the other rooms because of various reasons. For these spaces it’s a good idea to go ahead and figure out how you’re going to provide extra heating elements. Some options would be adding a furnace with blower or fireplace, inconspicuous baseboard heating or radiant floor heating. Read our complete guide here about heating local spaces.

Step 3 Preparing your windows, doors and other exterior structures.

Check for a good seal and weatherstripping. Problems with these can make doors and windows drafty and cause unnecessary heat loss. If you have storm doors and windows, the time to replace your current screens is now! Don’t have storm windows? Try plastic wrap and weather tape to prevent drafts! Finally, check the wood around doors and windows for signs of rot or decay, cracks, gaps or broken glass and replace or repair if needed.

Step 4  Be sure overhead fans are rotating in the right direction.

Finally, make sure overhead fans are switched to the reverse or clockwise position, Doing this will blow warm air down to the floor leading to energy efficiency and comfort. This will in turn make room feel warmer, and you can lower the thermostat temperature! The only exception to this rule is if your ceiling fan is mounted on a two-story cathedral or a vaulted ceiling, the fan is too high to create this effect so it can stay in counterclockwise setting year round.

If you need help with winter preparation and live in the Nashville and surrounding area, please call on us at 615-802-2665.

Duct Cleaning: The Good, The Bad & The Ugly

There are many conflicting opinions online about getting your air ducts cleaned. In fact the EPA says there is currently no research on the benefits so they are careful not to make a recommendation either way. Since we are your resource for all things HVAC, we’d like to give you the honest facts- good, bad and ugly, that will hopefully help you make your difficult decision more easy.

3 Good Reasons for Duct Cleaning

1. It never hurts to improve your air quality

Everything in your home will get dirty. Homeowners regularly invest time and money in cleaning dust, dirt and other allergens from many surfaces of our home and removing toxins from our water system. In addition to normal dust and dirt accumulation, any of the following environmental factors will eventually affect your air quality:

  • pets
  • cigarette or cigar smoke
  • water contamination or damage to the home or HVAC system
  • home renovation or remodeling projects

2. Potential Energy savings

When your HVAC system is clean, it doesn’t have to work as hard to maintain the desired temperature. As pollutants pile up in the system, it has to work much harder, using more energy and costing more to work properly. When your ducts are cleaned out, your HVAC unit uses less energy and leads to improved cost-effectiveness!

3. Mold in these components could be making you sick

Contaminants and air pollutants, such as dander, dust, and chemicals are pulled into the HVAC system and re-circulated on average about 5 to 7 times per day. Over time, this recirculation will cause a buildup of these pollutants in the duct system. These pollutants affect the health of young children and the elderly more than anyone. This is why the National Air Duct Cleaners Association recommends homeowners clean their ducts once every three to five years. Furthermore, if you have allergies or asthma, autoimmune disorders or other respiratory health issues they recommend you consider having it done almost annually.

The Bad and Ugly Side of Duct Cleaning

Duct cleaning is a costly and messy process. To do it right all of the components will need to be removed and everything will need to be cleaned. This includes the supply and return air ducts and registers, grilles and diffusers, heat exchangers heating and cooling coils, condensate drain pans (drip pans), fan motor and fan housing, and the air handling unit housing. This is a very time consuming and costly process. Just running a spinning polyester brush  through the ducts will leave 30% or more of the dirt in the ducts.

If you choose to go ahead with duct cleaning, now may be a good time to schedule it. Right before winter is one of the best times to get your air ducts cleaned out as your ducts will be blowing the most air during the winter months.

**Interstate AC Service does not  provide duct cleaning services.

f you live in the Nashville and surrounding area, please call on us at 615-802-2665. The professionals at Interstate AC Service are here for you.

Beware of Fake Refrigerants

Counterfeit and illegally imported refrigerants have existed in the HVAC industry for years. With R-22 increasing in price due to the government phase out (see previous post An Update on the Refrigerant R-22), people are doing anything they can to get their hands on cheaper solutions. Some refrigerants coming into the U.S. from other countries are not just imported illegally, but they are counterfeit, posing safety and health concerns to technicians and consumers. If you are having your air-conditioning system serviced, be alert to the various scams out there!

Unapproved Substitutes

Several companies have been penalized by the federal government for illegally marketing and selling other hydrocarbon products such as ES 22a as a replacement for R-22. (see  EPA vs EnviroSafe and EPA vs Northcutt).  According to the EPA,  use of ES 22a –  a refrigerant meant for window air conditioning units – creates the potential for explosion and fires, and is a serious risk to human health and the environment. R-22 air conditioners weren’t built to handle the level of pressure or flammability these substitutes pose. In particular, R-22a, which uses propane, creates a fire hazard. Approved alternatives to R-22 do exist, such as R-422D, so check with your HVAC contractor.

Unapproved Additives

Some vendors have blended the refrigerant with flammable substances such as propane and butane, or with a pine-scented odorant (see R-22a Safety). These have been sold under the names OZ-12®, HC-12a®, and DURACOOL, to name a few. Use of flammable refrigerants as a retrofit in equipment that was designed for non-flammable materials presents risks to consumers, equipment, and service technicians, and will void your equipment’s original manufacturer’s warranty. There are stories where the compressor burst into flames, the technician sustained serious burns, and the siding was melted off the house!

Counterfeit Refrigerants

Some counterfeit or contaminated refrigerants have counterfeit labels on the cylinders and packaging, so you can’t tell what’s actually inside. Contaminated refrigerants can cause a variety of issues, ranging from increased energy use and decreased cooling performance, to significantly reducing the operating life of your system, and causing injury and equipment failures.  Plus, many counterfeit  products contain ozone-depleting substances which are illegal. In China, 18 people were arrested from 4 criminal gangs, and 5 illegal production facilities were found, along with 11 storage warehouses and 2 sales offices. Over 28,000 canisters of fake R-134a and other refrigerants were confiscated along with 20 tons of raw materials (see report here).

Contaminated Refrigerants

Many refrigerants, including R-22, R-134a, R-404A, and R-410A, have been found to be badly contaminated (see report here). One of these contaminants is methyl chloride (also called R40 or chloromethane). It reacts with the aluminum and metal alloys used in the internal components of your HVAC system, causing corrosion and a volatile by-product that burns on contact with air. Exposure of the system’s contents to air and/or moisture could result in production of a strong acid and violent chemical reaction. This contaminant was responsible for a fatal apartment fire in 2014.

In our next post, we’ll tell you what the HVAC industry is doing to fight back and what you can do to avoid becoming a victim of fake refrigerants.

Can You Save Energy with a Tankless Water Heater?

Here at Interstate AC Service, we have a passion for green products and saving energy and thought you too would enjoy keeping abreast of the latest “green” gadgets. Water heaters account for 17% of your home’s energy use, which is more than all other household appliances combined, so saving energy here can make a big impact on the environment and on your budget!

What is a Tankless Water Heater?

Tankless water heaters as the name implies, heat the water instantly as it’s needed, without the use of a large “storage tank.” By eliminating the need to keep a whole tank of water heated round-the-clock, just in case it’s needed, you eliminate energy waste. You also reduce the air conditioning energy that is required to remove the waste heat around the water tank. A tankless water heater can be powered by electricity, natural gas, or propane, and can be 8-34% more efficient than traditional water heaters. Plus, because of their small size (about the size of a small suitcase), they can be installed anywhere, even a crawl space or attic.

Never Run Out of Hot Water Again

In many homes, running the dishwasher, laundry, and trying to take a shower at the same time is almost impossible without exhausting the capacity of the typical hot water storage tank. Tankless water heaters provide an “endless supply” of hot water because it is being made on-demand. When a hot water tap is turned on, cold water travels through a pipe into the unit. Either a gas burner or an electric element heats the water. As a result, tankless water heaters deliver a constant supply of hot water. You don’t need to wait for a storage tank to fill up with enough hot water. A tankless water heater is best located near the place you want to use hot water, such as in the bathroom, kitchen, or laundry room. That way, little energy is lost getting the hot water to the point of use.

Caveats

A tankless water heater’s output limits the flow rate to 2 5 gallons per minute, with gas-fired tankless water heaters having higher flow rates than electric ones. In a large household, even the largest, gas-fired model cannot supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses in different areas of the house (for example, taking a shower and running the dishwasher simultaneously). There are two ways to deal with this: install two or more tankless water heaters in parallel, or install a separate tankless water heater near each appliance that uses hot water. Installing a separate tankless system near each appliance achieves the greatest efficiency (up to 50%).

Installation & Payback

Proper installation and maintenance of a tankless water heater will optimize its efficiency. The initial cost of a tankless water heater is more than a storage-type water heater, and you’ll need the skills of a variety of tradespeople. Tankless water heaters require reconfiguring the existing water piping, installation of a new 120-volt electrical receptacle, and for gas-powered units, installation of a double-walled vent pipe through a side wall as well as a larger gas line. Thus, the installation costs are much greater: $2K-5K for a tankless (costs are dropping) vs $900-1300 for a traditional water heater. Plus, for tankless systems, yearly maintenance is required by a qualified technician, so that calcium build-up does not decrease the unit’s efficiency.

ENERGY STAR® estimates that a typical family can save $100 or more per year with an ENERGY STAR qualified tankless water heater, depending on water usage and energy costs (gas or electric) in your area. And tankless water heaters have a much longer life – more than 20 years – compared to conventional water heaters, which typically last only 10-15 years. But, because of the higher purchase and installation costs, payback periods are generally on the order of 20 years or more for a tankless system.

Is a Tankless Right for You?

Studies reported that the majority of homeowners who switched to a tankless water heater were very happy with it. As long as you realize the upfront cost, you’ll definitely save energy, and have unlimited hot water with a tankless unit. To help offset the upfront costs, there are some Federal Tax Credits (available until December 31, 2016 on gas-powered units only), and manufacturer’s rebates offered. Plus, if you’re going for LEED certification for your commercial or residential building, tankless water heaters may help you get there.

Causes of Refrigerant Leaks

Perhaps you’ve read or listened to one of our earlier posts entitled “Fix the Refrigerant Leak Now!” so you know how expensive refrigerant leaks can be! With the phasing out of R-22, a “shot of Freon” (as it is often called), could run you $400 or more. And there’s no telling whether that will last a couple of months or a couple of weeks! Plus, it is detrimental to the environment, causing a depletion of ozone in our upper atmosphere. If you recharge the system several times, the oil in the compressor will deplete enough to damage the compressor, and then you may require a major and expensive repair! A properly-working air conditioner does not consume or use up refrigerant, so if it is running low on refrigerant, there is a leak somewhere in the system. But where? In this post, we’ll talk about the most likely culprits.

Schrader Valve

The Schrader valve, also called the core valve, or service valve, is the port you hook up to when servicing the system. That’s why finding a leak here can be so elusive: while it is in use, it doesn’t leak. It’s only when it is not engaged that the leak can be detected. Often, this can be as simple as putting a soapy solution around it and watch for bubbles to form, or using an electronic leak detector. The Schrader valve can become leaky when debris gets stuck in it, or when the rubber o-ring deteriorates. It used to be that to swap out the valve with a new one required removing all the existing refrigerant in the system (pumping it down) first. But now there are some specialized tools that allow you to swap out this valve while the system is still under pressure. After swapping it out, the system can be topped off with refrigerant. Consider yourself lucky if this is the problem because it is easily repaired.

Condenser Coil, Evaporator Coil, or Accumulator

The evaporator coil picks up heat from indoor air, and the condenser coil releases heat into outdoor air, so these coils are essential for heat exchange. Either or both can develop leaks over time. In some cases, you may be able to hear the hissing sound emanating from the coil and can determine where the leak is. What’s more likely is that the coil has developed microscopic “pin holes” in several places. That’s because these coils are typically made out of copper, which is particularly susceptible to pollutants such as formaldehyde which is often found in our homes in flooring, furniture, hairspray, and cleaners. Formaldehyde turns into formic acid which causes corrosion on the inside of the tubing. Ironically, newer systems that meet the government’s mandate for increased efficiency may be more susceptible to these kinds of leaks. That’s because A/C manufacturers found they can raise the efficiency of their equipment by using thinner copper in their evaporator coils, thus allowing faster heat transfer. Some A/C manufacturers have switched to aluminum coils to lessen the probability of this type of corrosion. Heat pumps typically have accumulators made of steel, which will rust over time.  Any of these types of causes are very expensive to address because they require replacement of the coil or accumulator which is a very expensive part, plus it requires a complete depressurizing of the system (withdrawing all refrigerant or “pumping down”).

Joints, Seals, Lines and Tubing

Vibration of running the system, as well as environmental pollutants, can cause joints, rubber seals and copper tubing to weaken, split, separate, or rust. A lawn mower or nail may have punctured a line. Steel parts will rust if not galvanized or made rust-proof. Age is also a factor, because the system is under high pressure causing the walls of the tubing to thin and weaken over time. These leaks can be hard to find and may require disassembly of the unit. To locate the source of the leak may involve injecting a tracer (a fluorescent dye) into the system and then re-checking the system about 10 days later using a UV lamp to see where the dye has leaked out. Once the source is found, the joint, connection, or hole in the tube can be fixed by re-soldering, cutting it out, replacing it or by-passing it. The diagnosis and repair of these conditions can be time-consuming and thus expensive.

A Dilemma

Depending on the age of the air conditioner or heat pump, and the type of refrigerant it uses, you may be faced with a dilemma: You may need to consider replacing it rather than repairing it. Weighing the costs can be tricky, so you’ll want to read our post entitled “Repair vs Replacement.” Keep in mind it is possible to repair one refrigerant leak and have another one develop in a different location shortly thereafter. Whatever you decide, doing nothing is not an option. Sure, the cost to repair or replace your system may be higher than simply adding another “shot of Freon,” but not repairing a leak causes recurring expenses that will only escalate, risks major damage to your system that could be even more costly, and injures the environment.

DIY? Not!

Finding the source of a refrigerant leak requires the use of specialized tools and supplies, specialized training, and is something few homeowners can do themselves.  Recharging the system with refrigerant whether the “old” R-22 or R-410A equivalent, or the new refrigerant R-422 is definitely not something a homeowner can do since it requires a government license to order and use these refrigerants. Depend on the experts at Interstate AC Service to diagnose the source of your leak, fix it, recharge your system, and get your air conditioner operating at peak efficiency.

Are More Expensive Air Filters Better?

It may surprise you to learn that indoor air pollution is among the top five environmental health risks. That’s why we’ve been devoting a series of posts on air filtration.  If you’ve been watching and listening to our posts, you’ve heard us talk about the MERV ratings of air filters, and how to select the best air filter for your needs. As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. But here is one instance when the buying the best, most expensive filters those with MERV ratings greater than 16 may do more harm than good.

HEPA Filters

Among the most expensive filters are HEPA filters. Higher efficiency filters with a MERV rating of 14 to 16, are sometimes misidentified as HEPA filters.  But true HEPA filters have MERV values of 17 to 20.  HEPA which stands for High-Efficiency Particulate Arrestance – is a special type of filter that, according to DOE standards, filters out 99.97% of particles down to 0.3 microns in size… that’s 10 times smaller than a MERV 16 filter!  HEPA filters are typically used in biomedical applications to filter out bacteria and viruses.

More Harm Than Good

True HEPA filters those with MERV ratings 17 and above – are normally not installed in residential HVAC systems. A typical residential air handling unit and associated ductwork cannot accommodate HEPA filters. They do not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate the large pressure drop across the dense HEPA filter material. If you install a HEPA filter in an HVAC system not specifically designed for it, it will make your motor work harder because it is getting too much resistance, and this will hamper your airflow, increase fan noise, and cause your system to fail earlier. Check with your HVAC manufacturer prior to upgrading filters to determine whether it is feasible to use more efficient filters.

Let’s Get Real

According to the EPA, using medium-efficiency filters, such as those with a MERV rating of 12-13, are almost as effective as true HEPA filters at removing allergens, with much lower associated system and operating costs, and quieter fan operation.  Furthermore, many air particles never go through your HVAC filter system because they are deposited in your living space on your sheets, furniture, and carpet, for example.  So, you still need to change your sheets, vacuum, and do all those house-cleaning chores regularly to maintain your indoor air quality.

Things You Can Do

Here are some other simple things you can do to improve your indoor air quality:

  • Prevent mold by controlling moisture throughout your home.  That means turning on exhaust fans in bathrooms while showering, and making sure your basement and crawlspaces are dry.
  • Fix any leaks in your ductwork, in the roof, around windows and doors, and around plumbing fixtures.
  • Keep your home smoke-free. Do not smoke indoors, don’t burn candles and incense, and use exhaust fans while cooking.

Selecting an Air Filter

When you go to a hardware or big box store to purchase air filters you will find a bewildering array of products. 3M, for example, offers 9 different types of filters each with different ratings and at a different price, and then each of those comes in different sizes. It can be confusing, to say the least! We’ll help you make sense of it all, so you can choose the best air filter for your needs.

Size Matters

Size is perhaps the easiest decision: get the size filter that fits the filter holder built into your HVAC system. It should fit snugly, with no air gaps around the filter. Be aware that filters come in thicknesses of 1-inch to 6- inches, with the thicker filters having greater capacity to catch dirt without increasing resistance to air flow and increasing the time between required filter changes.  However, you cannot put a thick filter (4 or 6 inches thick) into your HVAC system if it’s designed to accommodate only a 1-inch thick filter.

Rating Matters

In our previous post, we talked about the MERV ratings of filters.  MERV is an industry standard measurement of filter efficiency.  Individual manufacturers often have their own rating system as well.  3M’s rating is called MPR, which standard for Microparticle Performance Rating.  As with the MERV rating, higher MPR numbers mean a greater percentage of particles and smaller particle sizes will be captured by the filter.

Price vs Performance

How do you decide which MERV rating to get?  Generally, the higher the MERV (or MPR) rating, the more expensive the filter.  For example, the price of a MERV 13 filter is about twice the price of a MERV 8 filter of the same size. 3M offers multiple filters having a MERV 12 rating, but with different MPR ratings, and so even among filters of the same size and MERV rating, the prices can vary.  Which filter to buy depends on how much cleaning you want your filter to do. The lowest price filters at MERV 5 will remove dust, debris and lint. This is the minimum needed to maintain the health of your HVAC system’s heat exchanger and coils.  A MERV 11 filter removes smaller particles such as pollen, dust mites, mold spores, and pet dander. A MERV 12 or 13 filter can filter some bacteria, viruses, and odors.  Since the prices jump up dramatically at MERV ratings higher than 11, and the increased efficiency is only minimally incremental, using filters with more than a MERV 11 rating is probably not cost effective, unless there is some particular medical need.  In the chart, those shown in the “green zone” in the cost column represent the best value on a price vs. performance scale.

Air Filter Fundamentals

You’ve heard us preach over and over about how important it is to change your air filters on a regular basis. But there are so many to choose from these days and prices vary widely!  We’ll help you make sense of it all in this and two subsequent posts on this subject.

What’s the purpose?

The purpose of an air filter is to keep the coils and heat exchanger inside your HVAC system clean. Dirty coils and heat exchangers can make the system work harder and cause it to be replaced earlier, so keeping the filter clean helps prolong the life of your HVAC system. Since the air in your house circulates past these filters, they also affect the quality of the air you breathe. People with allergies or asthma are especially sensitive to airborne particles like pet dander, pollen, mold and dust, and the right filter will filter out these particles.

What is a MERV rating?

When it comes to air filters, the most important thing to look for – besides the correct size for your particular system – is the MERV rating. MERV stands for Minimum Efficiency Reporting Value. It is a measurement standard designed in 1987 by the American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE) to rate the effectiveness of air filters. The MERV rating is a number from 0 to 20, with most residential air filters in the 4-12 range. The higher the MERV rating, the more efficient the filter is, and the greater percentage of particles it can capture. MERV is an industry standard rating, so it can be used to compare filters made by different companies.

As a general rule, prices are higher for filters with higher MERV ratings. Often HEPA filters are rated in the range of MERV 17 to 20, and are the most expensive types of filters. But here is one instance when the most expensive may not be the best!  Most residential HVAC systems may not have enough fan or motor capacity to accommodate higher efficiency filters, such as those greater than MERV 16. Always check your HVAC manufacturer’s recommendations.

Installation Affects Performance

How a filter is installed also effects its performance. If a filter is installed such that air bypasses the filter, its effectiveness will go down substantially, so make sure the filter is the right size and it’s a snug fit. Plus, most filters are directional, meaning you have to install them facing the right direction. Check for the arrow which indicates the direction of air flow, and install the filter with the arrow pointing towards the duct. Here’s another tip: If you have your HVAC system’s fan set to “auto” then the air is only going past the filter when your system kicks on. By setting it to “on” the fan will continually move air across the filter, so the air you breathe will be continually filtered.

Most Important Thing

The most important thing to remember about home air filters is to change them regularly. Even the highest-quality filter won’t work if it is clogged with particles!  Check the filter manufacturer’s guidelines, as different filters are meant to be changed at different intervals. Plus, if you’re doing remodeling, there is construction going on, or you have pets, you will need to change your filters more frequently to compensate for the extra dust and residue in the air. Mark the date of installation along the filter’s frame, so you can clearly see when it was last changed.

Are HVAC Service Contracts Worth the Money?

Well, the short answer is, “it depends.”  Ask yourself these questions:

What is included?

If the contract is very cheap, it may be just a ploy to get a technician into your house and try to sell you something you don’t need.  However, if the contract entitles you to a discount on parts or labor, or priority service or emergency/after-hours support, then it might be very well worth it!  If a system is going to break down, it will typically do so at extreme temperatures: the air conditioning will fail on a very hot, humid day, or the heat will fail during a prolonged stretch of frigid weather.  These are times when you can ill afford to be without a working system and when all HVAC companies are inundated with calls.  Without having a company that will put you to the front of the line, you might find the wait with any company you call will be measured in days, not hours!  Additionally, most HVAC companies will charge extra for after-hours support.  You could wind up paying up to twice the labor charges for getting your system serviced on a Saturday versus getting it serviced on Monday.  But in extreme temperatures, you may not be able to wait until Monday!  So, if your service contract entitles you to no additional up-charges for after-hours emergencies, the savings in the labor on just one visit could be worth it.

How old is your unit?

If you have a brand new unit (less than 6 years old), the chances of it breaking down might be less than if you have a unit that is more than 10 years old.  Also, if the unit is still under warranty, then it could be that some portion of parts and/or labor may be covered by the warranty.  But be aware that manufacturers may not honor the warranty if they think the unit has not been properly maintained by the homeowner. Having a service contract where you can prove the unit had regular preventive maintenance might make all the difference.  Certainly, if you have an older unit, or a unit with a history of previous failures, having a service contract might be a smart move!

How diligent are you in doing preventive maintenance?

If you’re following the tips we provide on our HVAC News page, videos, and in our Fall Maintenance eBook, and are diligent about changing filters on time, cleaning the coils, keeping the condensate line clear, and doing other recommended tasks yourself, then you might not gain that much from having a service contract, especially if it only includes these same types of services.  Of course, some preventive maintenance tasks require special equipment, measuring devices, certifications or licensures (such as adding refrigerant to a unit), so there’s no such thing as never needing service.  But if you’re pretty handy and diligent about doing all you can, you certainly will lessen the chances of some things going wrong.

Consider Potential Savings

Annual maintenance is vital to keep your HVAC system in good working condition and at peak efficiency, so you’ll benefit by (a) avoiding big repairs bills, since minor problems could be spotted before they escalate, (b) lowering your utility bills, since your unit will be running more efficiently, and (c) extending the life of your system, so purchasing a new system can be delayed. Like your car, it is cheaper to maintain it in good working order than to deal with large repair bills when it breaks down.

Read  the Fine Print

Always read the contract, so you understand exactly what’s included, and what’s not.  For example, if you purchased a service contract from the gas company thinking it will cover your furnace maintenance, you may find it only covers repairs to the gas lines from the street up to the furnace; the gas company won’t be coming out twice a year for tune-ups and regular preventive maintenance on your HVAC unit.

Consider the Company, Not Just the Price

Remember, the service contract is only as good as the service provider backing it up. Are they honest, trustworthy, and reputable? Are their technicians trained, certified, licensed and insured?  Do they have experience with the type of equipment you have?  Do they treat their customers with respect?  Do they have good online reviews by homeowners (or business owners) and by the Better Business Bureau (BBB)?  Have they been in business a long time?  If you base your service decisions solely on price, you may not be getting a good value for your money.

LED Lighting Lowers HVAC Costs

As we enter the summer months, high air-conditioning bills seem just as inevitable as death and taxes.  Something most people don’t think about is that incandescent and halogen bulbs act as miniature space heaters, dumping over 90% of the energy they consume into heat… heating up your already-hot home. This means your air-conditioning has to work harder to keep you cool.  LED lighting uses a fraction of the energy consumed by traditional light sources.  They generate very little heat  (3 BTUs/hr vs. 85 BTUs/hr for incandescent bulbs) and remain cool during operation, thus easing the burden on your air conditioning system during hot weather and reducing your overall energy costs.  For every 60W incandescent (traditional) light bulb, you’re spending about $13.86 more in cooling costs per year (based on Nashville/TVA’s current electricity rate of 10.252 cents per kilowatt-hour) versus an equivalent LED bulb, so it can quickly add up!  Even when you consider the initial cost of LED bulbs (currently about $2.48 for a 60W equivalent bulb, compared to about $1.00 for a traditional 60W bulb), the payback period is just 6 months for a light that stays on 8 hours per day..  The savings come from reduced electricity to produce the light as well as the reduced cooling costs.  And just in case you’re thinking that the heat generated from traditional lighting might be beneficial in the winter to help keep you warm, it’s an extremely inefficient heat source, costing over 5 times as much as the typical gas furnace to generate the equivalent amount of heat.  Compact fluorescent light bulbs (CFLs) were promoted as an energy-saving alternative, but they’re no match for LED lighting, and are falling out of favor.

LED stands for light-emitting diode. The light is generated by a semiconductor, creating an effect known as electroluminescence.

Residential Advantages

  • LEDs do not contain mercury or toxic materials. However, CFLs contain mercury, which makes them hazardous to handle and to dispose of.
  • LEDs are much more durable than incandescent bulbs because they will not shatter when jarred or hit, and are not sensitive to humidity.  Both CFLs and incandescent lights are fragile.
  • LEDs have a longer life than any other lighting source on the market.  This means reduced hassle and inconvenience of replacing burned-out light bulbs. You would need 42 incandescent bulbs (changing the bulb 41 times!) to equal the typical 50,000 hr lifespan of an LED bulb.
  • Because LEDs run so much cooler than other bulbs, they are safer.  Lighting a holiday tree or other lighting decorations using incandescent lights presents a fire hazard due to the extreme concentrated heat they produce.  Plus LEDs won’t overload wall sockets by stringing multiple strands together.
  • LEDs are available in a range of hues, from remarkably bright white, to warm golden, to cool blue.
  • LEDs offer design flexibility, and are available in unique styles and shapes.
  • LEDs are an easy retrofit.  LEDs can be run with a dimmer (not true of most CFLs), which allows you to adjust the light level to suit your needs and create mood lighting.

Industrial Lighting Advantages

  • For industrial lighting applications such as warehouses, high ceiling environments, parking garages, traffic lights, etc. ─ the conversion to LED lighting would save many thousands of dollars in operating costs due to reduced electricity consumption, reduced need for bulb changes, ability to withstand shock, vibrations, and impact, and reduced demand on cooling. Plus, they are “instant on” (don’t have to warm up before emitting a bright light, quiet (no “hum” typical of high-powered fluorescent lights), and don’t require ballasts.
  • LEDs are a “green” solution, due to their vastly reduced energy consumption, reduced waste, and reduced toxic hazards ─ a win-win for health, safety, and the environment.

It’s time to convert to LEDs now!

  • Why make your air conditioning work harder than it needs to? LEDs provide significant long-term cost savings and help you keep cool.
  • If you are looking for ways to reduce your utility bills, increase the energy efficiency of your home and business with aesthetically pleasing lighting solutions, LEDs are currently an outstanding solution.